I have wanted for some time now to work up a class on Viking Era women's clothing, but stalled because I was not sure of how I wanted to approach the subject matter.  A whole class could be devoted to interpretations of the aprondress, for example.  There are quite a few people who teach excellent beginners courses on layers, colors and getting the right look, as there are others who are teaching "next steps" classes (I took a fantastic one at Pennsic last year). 

The class I will be offering soon will be a bit more specific and a bit more research oriented.  I hope to give a better understanding of the investment that textiles were in period and use that to give one a better perspective on how to use them.  Having an understanding of the daily lives of these women, and how valuable textiles were at the time, will give a better foundation for our projects.

Part of the class will cover what period fabrics looked like and how to try to determine which modern substitutions would be best.  Also covered will be examples of details and embellishments for garments that are based on extant items.  The themes that will be covered for each item are Provenance, Perspective, Plausibility, Practicality and Proportion.  As always, there will be a lot of tactile samples of items to be passed around to help illustrate textiles, ideas and techniques. 

The official listing for Pennsic is:

Deeper Look at Textiles & Trim of Viking Age Dress
By looking deeper at both the textiles and the details from extant items, this class aims to help individuals make informed choices for crafting their garments. Tactile examples will clarify the weaves and weight of period fabrics and there will also be discussion of possible modern substitutions. Additionally, practical details for finishing or embellishing garments will also be explored and their history investigated.  The goal of this class is to help the individual understand how daily life during the Viking Age could affect how textiles were crafted and worn.

I plan to teach twice at Pennsic and hopefully once at War Practice.  Also on the agenda (hopefully) will be Atlantia University and AEthelemarc AEcademy (both this fall).

(Note, this class is geared towards women's garments because I will often be using aprodresses as examples for various things, but a great deal of the class can be applied to any garments from the period!)

I have made some updates to my Viking Textiles - A Deeper Look at Plaids, Stripes and Checks article.  Added in a bit more information I got about several pieces, as well as some possible weaving drafts of those for which I did not have images. 

Additionally, there is now a downloadable PDF at the end of the document that can be printed out to give a a rough sense of the scale for these plaids (since all monitors will show items differently, and many of the photos from the academic works are enlarged already).

http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/blog-my-journey/viking-textiles-a-deeper-look-at-plaids-stripes-and-checks

I saw a wonderful article yesterday from Hakai Magazine on Viking woolen sails that is definitely worth sharing.   http://www.hakaimagazine.com/article-long/no-wool-no-vikings

Last year around this time I was working on weaving lightweight wool scarves based on those from Viking Age Dublin.  I fashioned two of them on a rigid heddle loom with two shafts.  The first is the one I often wear, and the second is nearly identical except that I worked to get the weaving more even and correct the amount of draw-in I had by the end of the piece.

I do not, however, often make The Thing just to have and then be done with The Thing for good.  The first is always an exploration and a learning experience.  Each further iteration is either and improvement on my technique or a deeper exploration into a period practice. 

Tonight I started sampling an even more fine wool single on my table loom.  Eventually I will weave a veil of this type of cloth.  After that, I plan to use an old TV tray stand I found and convert it to an Oseberg style loom an weave another cap or scarf on using a loom that functions as one did in period.  Finally, sometime down the road, the plan is to spin my own yarn to weave one.  I look forward to each step in this process.

The original wool scarves that I did have been written up here.  http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/blog-my-journey/dublin-scarf-finished

Because it is shopping season, and also because the new year approaches and many of us start to thing of the projects the next year will bring, I thought I would take the time right now to share some of my favorite fibers and yarn that work really well for SCA projects.

While I definitely recommend the experience of working with raw wool and hand processing it, we often do not have time for that, and it can be very difficult for beginners.  There is one processed wool roving/top that I have regularly spin and that I recommend to spinners of any level.  That wool is naturally colored Shetland roving that you can buy from several vendors at Pennsic, including Brush Creek Woolworks and Minerva's Spindle.  This stuff drafts and spins very well.  It has lots of loft so you can make a thick wooly yarn, or you can spin it out exceptionally fine on Viking period spindles.

http://www.brushcreekwoolworks.com/collections/fibers/products/natural-morrit-brown-shetland-wool-roving

Harrisville Shetland Yarns

Harrisville makes two weights of Shetland wool yarn.  The Highland is heavier, and for SCA purposes I would reserve it for cloaks or functional textiles (or for something where you want a bit more warmth or bulk).  The Shetland yarn is a great weight for functional textiles (woven mittens, pouches, mats, possibly hoods or something like that).  I highly, and I mean HIGHLY, recommend this yarn purchased as UNWASHED cones for new weavers.  The unwashed yarn is smooth during weaving, which means the threads are less likely to hang up on their neighbors (which gives you a clean shed).  Both weights work exceptionally well in rigid heddle looms and I have crafted many projects from this wool.  The Shetland can be used for garments, but the resulting item would be much heavier, and have a much lower threadcount, than most of what we see in finds from the Viking era.

Another way to use this yarn as as an easy to manage warp for your own handspun weft.

My favorite vendor for hits is Halcyon Yarn.  https://halcyonyarn.com/yarn/009/harrisville-shetland-yarn-_-unwashed-cones

EPiC Wool Yarn

I discovered this yarn early last year and fell in love.  The problem is that the company disappeared before I could order enough to do a project with it.  Well, we are lucky that Timeless Textiles have purchased the business and are offering this amazing yarn again.

This two-ply lightweight yarn is a true worsted wool.  It is both smooth and strong and weaves very easily.  It worked well at a sett of 20 for tabby on the rigid heddle loom when I sampled (and made a thick, almost canvas-like cloth at 25 for tabby).  I also know many people who love this particular yarn for tablet weaving.

You can get more information in the company's Facebook page:  https://www.facebook.com/timeless.textiles.sb2ollc/?fref=ts

Swedish Yarns

Bockens and Borgs make wonderful yarns that are exceptional for weaving.  They come in array of rich colors and can be worked into a number of items for reenacting use (including garments).  The one issue you can run into is that often it can be difficult to get a large number of skeins on very short notice.  It is good to plan larger projects well in advance so that there is time to get it from Sweden if need be.

Borgs 6/1 Faro wool yarn is a single ply yarn that works well at a sett of 20 or slightly higher for a twill.  This is the yarn I used as the warp in my apron dress and I have played with it also as a brocading weft for tablet weaving.  It is also often used as a tapestry wool.  It can be a little sticky as warp, but I still consider it easy to use.

Borgs 20/2 Tuna wool yarn is both fine and strong.  It is not sticky and works well for both tablet weaving and traditional weaving.  I have only sampled with it (and used it for tablet weaving) but it would make a lovely fabric.  This might be a good option for garment yarn for those who feel they are not quite ready to try weaving with singles.

Bockens 8/2 Mobelatta is very strong and has a bit of a sheen.  It is great for functional textiles that will have a lot of wear and would also likely make a wonderful shawl or outer garment.

You can find these yarns at the following vendors (I use all of them and they are great):
Vavstuga Weaving School: http://vavstuga.com/
Glimakra USA (Borgs only): http://glimakrausa.com/
Loan Star Loom Room: http://www.lonestarloomroom.com


Even with amazing yarns such as those I listed above, it can still be very difficult to find the correct yarns for imitating historic textiles.  Most garments in the Viking era were woven from singles.  Faro yarn is nice, but still thicker than much of what was used at the time.  Vendors who carry mill ends from the commercial weaving industry give us incredible access to exceptionally fine yarns.  The only warning I have with these sources is that they often have only what they have and will not get more in stock of an item.  I suggest ordering extra in the event you discover you need more later.

The weft in my handwoven aprondress was a large cone of mill end wool yarn that was gifted to me by a friend.  (It is the same wool I used for my Dublin scarves.)

I have resourced these types of wool from two sources.  One is WEBS (http://www.yarn.com/mill-end-weaving-yarns/). This vendor does not always stock yarns that meet our needs, but I purchased some there this fall that is exceptionally nice and will work very well for garments.  Look at the Yorkshire 30s yarn if it is still there (and then be in awe of the price, it is a fantastic deal). 

The other resource that I positively love is ColourMart in the UK.  This vendor carries a massive supply of yarn including some incredibly fine wools (and silks as well).  I highly recommend getting on the email list to be advised of sales.  And, if you are purchasing a large amount of yarn for weaving garments, make sure you change the items to larger cones at check-out, as you will save your self a good deal of money.  I have loved every yarn I have gotten there (especially the 1/13 wool and the 1/20 Merino/Cashmere).  http://www.colourmart2.com/products/rootProducts.php

Below is a really fascinating video about the Lendbreen tunic and its recreation.  Definitely worth taking the time to watch if you are interested in early textiles!

I am so thrilled right now.  Finished my first pair of naalbinding socks (Oslo stitch).  I learned a great deal over the last couple of weeks making these, and look forward to starting another pair this weekend.  I need to do a few things differently with the next pair, but I am more than pleased with the results for my first go-around!

I absolutely recommend this woman's videos for those who want to try this art for themselves!  http://www.en.neulakintaat.fi/

In addition to updating some research (and the Resources tab on this page), as well as some of the materials and bibliography for the Viking Wool class that I am teaching this weekend, I think I can say I am grasping naalbinding.  My first sock is done save for finishing the top. Second sock just needs the toe and heel.  Aside from some videos on Oslo stitch, I have pretty much winged it and tried to do what seemed to intuitively work just to figure out the mechanics of this.  It really does make sense now.  I cannot wait to finish the second sock and then start a pair for my boyfriend.  Yarn used is Alafoss Lopi wool from Iceland.

I was in MD all weekend, and lucked out in that my Laurel's local group in Atlantia (Dun Carraig) was having their Baronial Birthday event this weekend so I popped down there Saturday afternoon.  This group is always super friendly and holds lovely events.  I met some great people and got to spend and afternoon geeking about Viking textiles and clothing.

I will also say that Dun Carraig really goes out of their way to help newcomers get involved in whatever it is that they want to try out.  The effort was headed, initially, by Mistress Molly (my Laurel and former Chatelaine for the area) and is now carried on by the current Chatelaine.  They offer a series of classes a couple times a month that bring in teachers for pretty much everything to get not only newcomers, but others who are looking for new skills, involved.  Basic dance, ladies medieval headwear, dyeing, blacksmithing, hand sewing... you name it!  I am planning to make an effort next year to go down and teach a spinning 101 as well.  They really have an incredible program and I see newcomers wearing handsewn garments as a result.  Impressive!

And speaking of new skills, I finally decided I WILL learn naalbinding.  I have dabbled a little before, but was just not quite getting it.  I have never managed to have a class line up with my schedule and while I am pretty good at learning things on my own, this was one of those that was not happening that way for me.  I have heard nothing but good things from folks who use a series of videos by a Finnish woman, so I started there this time.  (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcuUqeKQZ5Q )

My journey began Sunday and I spent 1-2 hours each night at it.  By Friday it clicked and I started to make something that actually looked like something!  I should have saved the huge pile of fails so that I could show how many times I had to restart.  Lol.  As it is, I think I love this.

I used some crappy 80% acrylic 20% wool blend that I bought at Michaels for this.  I ordered some Alafoss Lopi wool to attempt socks for both myself and my boyfriend.  If I survive that I will get the Lett-Lopi (finer lopi yarn) for another project.  The extant sock from Coppergate is worked in a  fine plied yarn.  I am not sure about the yarn used in the extant mittens in terms of plied vs singles, but it appears much more coarse than that used for the sock.  Guess I need to do some research here to figure out what was used in the various extant pieces.  I have a wonderful fleece that is a longwool/merino cross that feels great so it could be a perfect candidate for spinning and using for this type of work down the road. 

And yay for another highly portable project!

I also already have yarn to weave up some fabric for woven mittens (such as those found fairly recently at Lendbreen).  I think it would be pretty cool to make those, as well as a naalbinded set, and compare them out in the cold this winter. 

As for other things, I started warping a sample of the very fine yarn I got for garment weaving so that I can figure out the correct sett before I start measuring out the 59,000 yards of it that I have for a tunic and smokkr.  I also finally cleaned up enough of the sewing room that I could start working up new garments from the recent linen purchase.  Starting on a new outfit based on the finds at Kaupang and I am pretty excited about that.

Mistress Oda Wlslagre dicta Widoeghe from Atlantia recently added a post to her blog (Medieval Threads) with tips about spinning singles for weaving.  It is a very informative post (especially if you are new to spinning or weaving) so I am sharing it here.  (She also has lots of other goodies on her site and in her documentation, so definitely worth checking it all out!)

Click her banner below to go to the post!