I started out in the SCA around the end of 1992.  I was in Sylvan Glen briefly (as the group was starting up), and then moved to Atlantia.  When I arrived in that Kingdom, the first medieval reenactor I met was part of the Adrian Empire and I tested that out briefly before rejoining the SCA. 

The friend from Adria was more experienced at medieval sewing than I was at the time and I told her I was very excited about going to events and making costumes.  She looked appalled when I made that statement and told me in now uncertain terms that we wear "garb" and not "costumes".  Garb, she said, is clothes people wore; costumes are playing dress-up.

Given that I was still enamored at the time with buying yards and yards of tacky trim (and note that this friend was as well), the distinction between the two was not yet clear in my mind. 

It was a decade later, when my boyfriend ordered a giant quantity of linen, in many colors and several weights, that I finally started to understand what made some of the simplest garb stand out.  At his request, I made 8 tunics in mid-weight linen, 8 undertunics in light linen and 8 pairs of linen pants.  They were all cut using rectangular construction techniques and were completely unadorned.  We were walking about at Pennsic one day and came upon a group of his friends.  One of the guys commented that he liked his garb a lot, but that it did not look like garb, this friend joked, it looked like clothes.

Exactly.

Of course, this is the SCA, so costume garb is perfectly ok (and quite often, these items are also perfectly beautiful).   Many individuals are into research and who view this as an opportunity to recreate history often aim to produce garments that reflect what common individuals wore during these earlier times.  They recreate the day-to-day garments, clothes rather than costumes. These items stand out for their simplicity and functionality in a way that the most heavily beaded and trim laden gown cannot.  They look real.

In reality, getting to this point is often a mental process.  Early on, most of us are drawn to the miles and miles of colorful trim sold by SCA merchants.  We want to slap it on everything and "peacock" ourselves (thanks to folks from one of the Viking forums for the rather appropriate peacock term).  Eventually, those interested in really understanding the history behind clothes start to see past the glitter and look to recreating, rather than re-imagining, the past.

How do you start to make medieval clothes rather than costumes?  Research!  :-)   Look at paintings for later period items.  Look at sculptures.  Look at archeological finds to see how those items were actually put-together and decorated.

You can also carefully consider your choices in fabric - would linen or wool twill be better than a modernly patterned brocade?  Consider more realistic trimming options.  In period, the creation of decorative bands was very labor intensive.  Would one really have worn them to work in the market or even manage the home?  Perhaps there are other, simpler, ways to embellish your garb that would be more suitable.  (For example, a simple strip of silk fabric as trim at the top of a Viking aprondress is more period than a wide row of purchased metallic Celtic knotwork trim.)

And look around the work of others.  You will find some lovely things at events and online.  Some things I have seen recently that I love are below.  There are so many more, you just need to poke around a bit to find them!

• 16th C. German & Elizabethan Costuming by Amie Sparrow
• There are some lovely re-creations on Kostym.cz (I really love the German Lady, the Red Cotehardie, the Brown Peasant, Durer Dress, Kampfrau, and the Fortune Teller): http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/VIII_01_01.htm
• Often living history groups have strict standards for what can and cannot wear to events and they produce some lovely items (particularly those in Europe).  There are some nice examples on this site: http://www.fletcherey-hammelbacher.de/6.html
• This one is the gallery of a photographer that has some amazing images, a few of which are of people in lovely medieval dress: http://alcove.deviantart.com/gallery/
• Most of the dresses in these links are not workclothes, but they are lovely reproductions that are not over-wrought.  I particularly love Anea's dress: http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm
• And this lady has some lovely garb, particularly her houppeland with ruffled veil! https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elisas-Endeavors/388450527889191?id=388450527889191&sk=photos_stream

A discussion was recently had on one of the SCA costuming groups.  Someone posted a rather striking photo of garb and was trying to find the source of it.  They had found the photo elsewhere, asked the poster as to the source, and were given an SCA website. The person who added the photo to the list was sure it was SCA made.

I was not so sure it was made by an SCA member.  For one, I had seen either that exact image, or the garb in it, before.  The other reason though, is that I do not thing I have ever seen anyone in the SCA produce earlier period garments with THAT level of quality and detail.

Yes, we have amazing artisans and costumers.  And I have actually seen THAT professional level of detail and quality in very late period attire produced by members of the SCA.  What you can't see in this small image is that those borders on the bottom of the tunics are embroidered.  Perfectly embroidered.

If you want to see the costumes closer you can do so here:  http://ranaan.altervista.org/html/SCA-Gallery.htm  (And no, I cannot explain the final image on that page.  LOL)

As it turns out, the costumes were commissioned by a town in Italy for part of a pageant or faire that they have each year.  Some of the costumes they use are painted, and some are painstakingly embroidered and embellished by hand.  They are all striking.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lefotodifra/4661291435/
http://www.altomilaneseinrete.it/notizie/2009/05/palio_1.htm
http://www.matteoquaglia.it/palio_legnano_2009

And the actual organization: http://www.contradasanterasmo.com/

This whole thing, however, reminded me of a recent conversation about garb, and what garb was "good enough" for 12th Night.  A friend with lots of lovely Viking garb, as well as a few nice Italian Renn (not 100% accurate, but they are lovely and well-made and clearly far surpass the required "attempt" at garb), and was torn because she felt her costumes were not appropriate for 12th Night.

After reminding her that some people will be there who are just starting out, or who just prefer T-tunics, or who simply don't have "court garb" yet, we got side tracked talking about how it was back-in-the-day.  I clearly recall being told in my early years in the SCA that you made late period European garb as Court garb - garb that you wear to attend Court or things like 12th Night.  Tudor, Elizabethan, Italian Renn... all of those were considered appropriate items for ones Court Garb wardrobe.

Things have changed a great deal since then.   While people still ooh and ahh over the decked-out embroidery-and-pearls look that many late-period European individuals still go for, it is now common place to have upper class Vikings at Court.  Or someone in the well-to-do attire of a  non-European persona.

I love the diversity.  And I love much of the top-of-the-line non-traditional SCA garb I have come across.

But, I have yet to see something produced for an earlier period that matches the quality of the items above.  Those costumes look elegant, rich, and yet, still real. Many attempts I have seen, while beautiful, still read as "costume" to me (and there is nothing at all wrong with that).  I do not have the time to attempt such a feat myself, but I look forward to the day I see someone cross that line and go from fine work to fabulous.  (Note, I have seen exceptional simple-but-elegant early period garb, but nothing embellished at the level of the items in the photo above.)

And please, if you have seen that somewhere in the Known World, send me photos so I ooh and ahh over their fabulousness!

I often have people new to sewing come to me for advice on which machine should be their first (or next, in the case of those looking for an upgrade).

I suggest first that they try to borrow a machine from someone else to see if it is even something they really want to learn.  (Too many people think it will be easier than it is, and that it somehow isn't something you have to actively practice in order to produce nice work.)  If they have already tried sewing and are fairly certain it is an avenue they want to pursue, I recommend they get a decent machine with a handful of stitches and with a drop-in bobbin.

Now, I know quite a few people who recommend only vintage, all-metal parts, machines.  I, however, don't. Unless the person asking for information already has such a beast, I rarely suggest it (thought I do advocate trying one out if they have access to one).  Yes, I know, that machine has been functioning for 50 (or 80) years and will likely run for another 50 (or 80) because they were just made that well, but honestly, I have never really enjoyed sewing on them.

I personally have two of vintage machines, one is a Necchi and the other (if I recall correctly) is a Singer.  They belonged to my granny and mam-maw.  They are beautiful and entertaining to use, but I do not actually enjoy sewing with them (though I know many people love that type and would consider using nothing else). 

I find them slow to use, even slower to change stitches (especially for machines that use cams) and very trying when it comes to bobbins and bobbin casings.  Yes, that sounds silly from someone who has been sewing more than half her life, but fiddling with a bobbin case can very much eliminate any joy I have in a project.

I've owned an industrial, a past-its-prime White (nicknamed Lloth because it had a tendency to hack up spider-babies of thread) and a couple of other very low-end machines that did not last long.  In 1995, I got my first nice machine.  It was a Babylock and had a range of stitches and a drop-in bobbin.  It really changed how I felt about sewing (which was good, given that I paid $500 for it).  That machine served me very well, even with the considerable amount of sewing I do, until the Great Pennsic Rush of 2005.  That year I was building complete Pennsic wardrobes for 4 people from scratch.  The vast amount of sewing was too much for the poor Babylock and one week before war, my machine choked and just could not go on. 

Being the awesome individual that he is, my BF came home from work the very next night with a shiny new Kenmore from Sears.  This model was comparable to the machine that just died and cost only half of what the one a decade before had run.  This one, too, served me well and I was able finish all of the Pennsic projects on time.  To this day, I recommend this and similar Kenmore machines to people wanting to learn to sew (the last time I checked they range from $170-250, with drop-in bobbins and nice button hole features).  At least three people I know purchased them and had rave reviews after using them. 

What I do not recommend is any Wal-Mart $79 special machine.  I have never seen last more than a few months in the hands of someone doing alot of sewing.  I have even seen one fresh from the box that barely stitched at all.  I think it would be wise to save just a little more cash ($200, though sometimes you can even get nice machines for $150) and get a decent machine from the start if you are set on purchasing one new.  (If you are lucky, you will have at least one friend in your social circle who can scout out amazing bargains and who also knows how to sew. If you are on a super tight budget, get that person to help you find a great deal on Craigs List, Goodwill, flea markets, etc.!)

All of that being said, I still did not actually enjoy sewing until I got, in 2006, an embroidery/sewing machine.  My Husqvarna/Viking Designer SE is nothing short of amazing.  If you are an avid sewer, and have a use for machine embroidery, I cannot recommend this type of machine enough.  The entire line of machines is fabulous.  My mother got the Topaz 30 (the SE's little sister) a couple of years ago for Christmas and that one is also fantastic.  I test drove one before giving my dad my review, and it is an excellent machine, with the most of the same amazing sewing capabilities that I have on mine and very nice embroidery functions as well.  They no longer make the SE as the Rose and Diamond have come to the forefront of the Husqvarna line, but if you are in the market for a machine like this you can check them out here:  http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us/19554.htm

I hope that no one thinks I am suggesting that that one needs a pricey machine like these. BUT, I do think that if one sews excessively, but is not happy with the hand-me-down or starter machine one already owns, that perhaps a visit to a dealer is in order. 

If you do go to scout out a new sewing machine, I suggest you test driving several models and several brands.  This will allow you to see what functions exist on machines today, and then you can figure out what might most benefit you.  Different people will have different priorities when it comes to machines and all of those things should be factored into a decision about what to buy.  Another personal example I have is that I once had an industrial because I thought I "needed" one.  I used it for one project and puttered with it perhaps twice beyond that.  I did not actually like sewing with it at all, and found that most anything I needed to do, I could do with another machine that was just easier (and less intimidating) to use. 

Want more for less?  Test drive machines at your local dealer and then look for refurbished units or check with the local sewing and quilt stores (small shops rather than stores like Joanns) to see if they have a board or newsletter where other customers can place ads when they are selling used machines.  It also might not hurt to keep an eye on Craig's List as well.

My advice for those looking to upgrade:

• If you are looking for a new machine, make a list of the things you regularly sew.  Also make a list of the things you think you want to try to sew in the future (note which items you are sure about and which you might just want to dabble in). 
  
• What weights of fabric do you typically use?  Do you use silk chiffon for veils and the next day multiple layers of canvas and quilting for gambesons or do you mostly stick with middle weight fabrics and only occasionally range out to either end of the spectrum?
  
• How much sewing do you regularly do?  Someone considering starting a business would likely have different needs than someone who sews for a few events a year.
  
• Do you need specialty presser feet (you need to know if they make the right feet for the machine you are looking at)? 
  
• Do you really need 423 stitches or are they just something that would be nice to have?

Answering the above will help you and the staff at your local shops determing which machine will best fill your needs.  When it comes time to go shopping, grab your list and do the following:

• Check out more than one brand.  It's like buying a car, only more fun!
  
• Call your local shops and ask if someone has time to sit with you and show you the bells and whistles on a variety of models.  They are often quite willing to do so.  I have not had much pressure from the local women trying to upsell, but if you feel like you are dealing with a used car dealer, leave.  There are other places to shop.
  
• Look at reviews of the machines online.  This site has great reviews for sewing machines, embroidery machines and sergers:  http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingMachine/
• After previewing a variety of models, decide what you can afford and if you prefer to purchase new or save some money with a refurbished or used machine.
• If you are really torn about a particular machine and its higher-end/higher-priced counterpart, but are not quite sure you will use it enough to warrant the expense, talk to the dealer about their trade-in programs.  Yes, just like cars, many top machines have trade-in values and you can apply that to a newer/faster/shinier machine later.  (And also like cars, you are likely to get more money selling it yourself than you are with a dealer trade-in, but you do not have to track down a buyer yourself and that can save you time.)
  

And lest I be judged and condemned as a bad Scadian, I will note that there is always the option to hand-sew.  In fact, I think that anyone interested in garb or research should learn at least the basic hand stitches and consider using them for any visible seams (top-stitching and hems) for your nicest garb, if nothing else.

I personally, would hand-sew more of my garb than I do now if my work-schedule and arthritis would let me... As it is, I choose to hand-sew certain projects and do my Pennsic bulk-sewing on the machine.  I will have more to post about hand-sewing very soon.