This article is the follow-up to my opinion piece HERE. 

This article is about Garb, and my personal perspective on it.  I ask that anyone who chooses to comment please read the whole thing first and understand that all comments must be positive in nature (I will delete anything else).  We have all heard about misdeeds of the past, and it serves no purpose here to retell these things.  Instead, I want a conversation about bringing more positivity and understanding to the game, about how to be more welcoming into our Society. There were be additional parts to this article coming soon.
 
I think I made my position on garb pretty clear in the first write-up in this series, I want to offer the reminder that we can be our own worst enemies at times.  I have spent more than one late night crying before an event because something I felt I “had” to have ready either wasn’t going to be finished or just plain wasn’t working out at all.  I think most SCA artisans do this at some point or another and we need to remember that none of this is actually necessary.
 
Would it be nice to show off the new dress?  Yes!  Should anyone else care if it is not ready?  Oh heck no.  Yet we put this pressure on ourselves and I find that newcomers, who might not even have been to an event before also feel that pressure to have the “right” outfit before they even know what “right” is.
 
Do you thrive under pressure and feel joy in wrangling that dress through the sewing machine at 3am?  Please, do so if you love it.  Do you really just _want_ more than anything to own that classic princess dress of your dreams?  Please then, make it!  But you are not require to put in these hours to please anyone else.

Other things to keep in mind when taking the dive:

• It is not necessary to make a new outfit for each event.  It is also not necessary to match the theme of the event if there is one.  I made that mistake for years and really got burnt out over it.
• Historically, most people had very few garments compared to today.  That means it is totally period to have a very small wardrobe!!! I even have a friend who goes to Pennsic (for a week or more) with only a couple of gowns and I think three underdresses is what she told me.  She washes out the underdresses after wearing them and so she always has something clean to wear.  This is a far more accurate way of doing it than my own rather expansive garb closet, lol.  Some people prefer to have enough garb to never do laundry at a long event, but this is still good to keep in mind that one can absolutely take this approach if needed.
• Don’t let the idea of perfection get in the way of actually coming out to play.  Your garb does not need to be perfect to come to an event.  This especially applies to relative newcomers, but still is good to keep in mind for long time players as well.  I would rather see someone show up in a tunic they just made tossed on over sweatpants because they did not have time to get the pants done, than to have them opt out totally due to lack of ‘period’ pants.
• You are not in a competition with anyone else.  Folks are not judging your garb by comparing it to the person next to you.  Even if you are entering a competition, you are likely being judged against a rubric (a set of criteria) and then whoever scores highest on that will win, rather than just comparing two entries to each other.
• We absolutely allow for accommodations.  Do you need to wear glasses at all times?  Do you have to wear sun glasses if the sun is bright?  Do you need to wear sneakers (or in my case, Birkenstocks) to prevent damage to your feet?  Do you not handle the heat well and find that short sleeves, even if not period for your persona, make Pennsic more tolerable?  Cannot afford wool or linen, cotton fabric is totally fine.  All of these things are more than reasonable choices and they should never be questioned. 
• Kids always get a pass.  Is your kid sensitive to certain fabrics?  Then don’t push linen or wool on them, a loose cotton tunic and PJ pants might be the way to go!  Does your little princess prefer to be a Disney princess?  Totally fine as long as they are happy.  The entire event is happier if the kids are happier so definitely do not fret kid garb!

 
Now let’s talk a bit about how to get garbed up. 
 
Sewing – This is the obvious one.  Learning to sew and taking time to make your own clothing is the most common approach.  The problem with this is that many people don’t like to sew, and they should not be pushed into doing something they really do not enjoy.  Some people know how and even enjoy it, but just do not have time for whatever reason.  Some people are happy to sew simple things, but not comfortable tackling bigger projects.  (For example, I don’t enjoy sewing, but will do so for some things, I do hate tailoring and pattern making with a passion though and go out of my way to avoid it.)  Others might want to learn, but have been unable to find a teacher and the pandemic has made SCA sewing gatherings much more difficult. So sewing your own garb is an option, and I will address some very simple options for that in the last part of these articles.  I will recommend that if you are new that you do opt for simple over complex for your first event.  One will see so many types of garb at an event that it can help overcome some uncertainty about what to make.
 
Gold Key – Is there are group local to you?  (https://www.sca.org/about/kingdoms/)  Many groups have what they call Gold Key Garb.  This is loaner gear that is set aside to help newcomers enjoy their first event with less pressure.  Some places have a well-stocked closet, others might have a simple cloak or tabard that one can wear and a mug to borrow to explore the event while you figure out what you might want to make or buy for your next one.  Talking to the local Chatelaine (an officer who can help with newcomer questions) can let you find out if they have loaner gear (and can often be helpful in other ways as well, these folks love to be helpful).
 
Thrifting – Some people love to haunt thrift shops, Goodwill, and yard sales.  Some items can be taken apart and have the fabric repurposed for SCA use.  A large men’s wool sport coat can have the fabric salvaged for a woman’s bodice, hats or other items.  Curtains or bedding offer large lengths of fabric that could become any number of garb items with some sewing skill.  Other things can be purchased and used as-is, because they meet the “attempt” that is required.  Long, full skirts, particularly in solid colors, can make a great base wardrobe item.  Modern tunics in woven fabrics (rather than knit like t-shirt fabric) might work over a long skirt or cotton PJ pants as suitable first garb.  Shawls can become cloaks, as can heavy wool blankets.  I know people who have found long, loose summer dresses in 100% linen at Goodwill.  Something like that can be a great item to have in the garb closet and you can accessorize it with a belt or sash and a veil and look fantastic at an event while learning more about different garb types to decide what you might like to pursue.
 
I think at this time I need to talk briefly about fibre types and how they might affect your comfort levels.  Linen is going to typically be your coolest fabric in hot weather due to the way it wicks sweat and draws it away from the body to evaporate.  One of the real pluses to linen is that it dries rapidly, which means you can wash out linen garments at Pennsic and hang in the sun during the afternoon and they will almost assuredly be dry by nightfall.  Linen-cotton blend is also a good call for hot weather.  Many people also find cotton comfortable enough (particularly very light weight gauzy cottons).  Wool is fantastic for keeping you both warm and dry, and very, very light weight wools can even be comfortable in the summer.  Rayon is a cellulose based fibre as well, but it is heavily processed and wrinkles very easily, but many applications of that have a nice drape that people enjoy.  It also can shrink drastically, but it can also be comfortable in hot weather for many individuals.  Synthetics like acetate or polyester typically do not breath well at all, but the nice patterns we sometimes find on home goods still make up into lovely garb (it just might not be the best choice for hot and humid events like Pennsic).  Synthetics typically will not do well around fire.  A pretty chiffon skirt might look lovely for dancing, but you will not want to wear it near a fire because one spark could cause it to either melt to you or go up in flames.  Learning about different weaves and fibre types can help you better search out thrifted items to expand your wardrobe.
 
SCA/LARP Vendors – Of course there are vendors that cater specifically to our hobby and I love to see folks supporting them as much as possible.  There are dozens of them out there, and I am only going to list a couple here because I have personally seen their wares and because they offer items at a low price point (such as basic tunics in linen for under $100).  There are artisan vendors that can make pretty much anything you would like to wear if one is willing to pay for it.


Neverland Designs - http://www.neverlandgarb.flyingcart.com/
This company offers a number of simple designs in linen or cotton that tend to be durable.  You can layer a shorter linen tunic over a longer one for a great look.  They have aprondresses as well. A long linen gown, a shorter flared linen tunic (listen under men’s on their site) and an aprondress could provide a versatile wardrobe.  Either dress could be worn under the aprondress, or alone, or both gowns could be worn layered together.  They also have decently priced chemises for those who like to wear bodices and skirts.
 
Linen Garb - https://www.linengarb.com/
This company is also fantastic for producing basic garments that have real lasting power.  They are currently trying to find a new source for linen, but I hope to see them start vending at events again soon.  They produce very nice tunics, pants and dresses and also have some fantastically embroidered specialty items as well.
 
Bad Ass Garb - https://badass-garb.myshopify.com/
I personally have not handled the clothing from this shop but know several folks who swear by it.  They do offer 100% linen tunics for men at reasonable prices on their site and the photos also show a variety of women’s wear.
 
Hooded Hare - https://thehoodedhare.com/
This company makes tunics, dresses and aprondresses in 100% linen that one can use for many years.  The decorated tunics are a somewhat fantasy interpretation, but they are a staple for many SCA wardrobes.  They are more pricey due to the work that goes into them but look and wear well.  They do offer simpler undertunics that fall under $100 for a 100% linen garment as well.

Grimfrost - https://grimfrost.com/ (Updated 4/1/22) - I was aware of this vendor but did not know anyone who has specifically purchased clothing there until last night so I am now adding them.  I have long known that the clothing was not suitable for serious reenactment, but based on the review last night the garments sound sturdy and they offer things like linen gowns for $75 and tunics for $69 which is not bad at all.  Their aprondresses with the side slits are a modern interpretation rather than historic, but they would still be more than suitable for SCA purposes if accuracy is not the goal.  
 
There are many additional SCA and LARP vendors online, but I have not personally been able to vet their wares, so will not go into detail about them here.  I would LOVE, however, if those who have purchased from other outlets would chime in in the comments with other options for affordable garb that folks can use to get started.  I will note that if you can afford an entire outfit to start, that Historic Enterprises (https://historicenterprises.com/) offers whole outfits and even does custom sizing.
 
Easy to Purchase/Inexpensive Mundane Crossovers – Another way to get quick and low priced garb is to search online for vendors that sell basic garments in natural fibres that can be repurposed to SCA use.  There are a few things to watch out for when selecting vendors:

• Don’t buy from Wish.  Just please don’t.  There are many unreputable vendors there who sell items that lie about metal or fibre content, and many that are just scams outright.  It is not worth the problems you can get by purchasing from this source.  See my rant about Wish here if you like.
• Vet other sources carefully.  There are plenty of vendors on Amazon that are overseas and it can take weeks to get your items, or where they are not returnable at all, or that the sizing is based on sizing charts in China and not what you might be used to in the US.  Read reviews carefully and also ask friends or SCA groups online if they have used these vendors.  If something seems too good to be true, it likely is.
• Facebook hosts a ton of scam ads.  Unless you know the company is legitimate, just avoid these completely. 

 
I personally have found a ton of wonderful linen or wool scarves/shawls on Amazon or Etsy that made for fantastic veils for SCA use (you can search this blog for headcoverings or scarf to see some I have reviewed in the past).  There is a brand named FLAX that sells very basic linen dresses, that while not cheap would make lovely additions to an SCA wardrobe (and occasionally these show up in thrift shops).  Garments like this can also serve two purposes as both SCA and modern apparel.

Things like woven (not knit t-shirt) PJ pants in solids or sometimes plaids are a great way to cheaply purchase pants to extend a wardrobe.  No one will see the waist band when a tunic is worn over them.  And if you already have solid ones that are knit fabric in your drawer, they will be passable for a first event as well.  Likewise, a simple pair of modern summer linen pants will be comfortable and passable when under a tunic.
 
I recently saw a conversation on Facebook about beginner garb and someone linked a shop called AnySize on Amazon that has cotton linen blend dresses at reasonable prices.  I decided to get one to check it out for myself and it arrived this week.

I opted for THIS ONE with ¾ sleeves, despite that that is not the most period of choices for many times and places.  I want the dress for working in camp at Pennsic and for working outside in the summer and that is just more practical for me for that purpose (and it is totally fine by SCA standards as well).  It washed and dried well (despite saying Dry Clean Only) and did not seem to shrink too much as the fit felt pretty similar before and after washing.  The fabric has a texture to it, almost like a very heavy gauze (or Deva cloth, for the local folks who might remember that stuff).  The weight is not bad for hot weather, I don’t think, but I have not been able to test it yet given that it has been snowing on and off here for the last few days.  It is not as smooth as a good quality 100% linen (though not scratchy at all), and it might further soften with wear and additional washing.  For me it will still be perfectly comfortable.  Long sleeve version is HERE (they have more than one long sleeve style so looking at their storefront can help you find those).
 
Regarding sizing - I ordered the Medium and it has almost exactly the bust size that the underdresses I make myself have (39-40” in circumference is what I usually make, my bust measurement is 34”).  I would say these run pretty true to size.  I am 5’6” so it is mid-calf on me, which is fine for me for hot weather or a work dress or for layering.  Some folks prefer to wear shorter garments regardless of any other factors (when I started I made a bunch of Ren bodices and skirts and those skirts were never longer than mid-calf on me, and I usually wore Docs for shoes and the world did not end over it).
 
The dresses also come in long and short sleeve versions.  These are essentially T-tunics and could serve well for a first dress or for bulking up a wardrobe for Pennsic.  In addition to having the option of wearing it on its own, I dressed up my dummy to show some additional options.  While I used this Amazon dress in my photos here, these would work with any basic garment (and serve to show why anyone could make use of a few simple tunics/dresses whether from Amazon, Neverland, or elsewhere) as part of their wardrobe.  While browsing Amazon I saw a number of vendors selling men's simple caftans in linen-cotton blend (my partner purchased one and I will review later when it arrives) and even cotton-linen drawstring men's pants.  If ordering something from a new source, I do recommend ordering a single item first and checking quality before stocking up.  lol

I also purchased another linen scarf (which can be found at Amazon HERE) that can be seen in these photos.  This one would make a great head wrap, veil or sash.  It comes in other colors as well, but note that some colors are cotton and others are linen.

This is where I need to crowd source.  Do you have basic garments that are reasonably priced (under $100) that you use for events that you love?  Please leave a review and a link in the comments so that others can see what their options are!

This is the basic AnySize dress that I chose.  If I was not trying to use it for gardening as well, I might have chosen the long sleeve version instead to test out.  It is comfortable and fits well enough, even if a little short.  This fabric does wrinkle though, but it survived washing and drying well.

This is a very common SCA look.  It is not pretending to be any specific time and place, but rather is a serviceable, comfortable attempt at a medieval look.  In the photo I have the AnySize dress over a plain linen skirt, and am wearing it with a ring belt (something far more common in the SCA than in history, but it absolutely works).  The last installment of this article will have some instructions for a basic skirt.

This is what I love to call an Ugly Skirt.  I love them.  This is actually a very period item for Bronze Age and Early Iron Age in Northern Europe (and possibly Central Europe as well).  The skirt is a rectangle of cloth sewn up one side and the top and bottom edges are hemmed.  I have a wool woven belt that holds the skirt up.  (A wool belt is key here as you need the grip to keep the skirt from slipping out.). This is an instance where the 3/4 sleeves are perfectly period, so this look works pretty well over all.  You can typical find basic tablet or inkle woven wool belts at events for sale or on sites like Etsy.

Here I have the dress under a long-ish aprondress for a Viking look.  The brooches here are reproduction ones, but you can find reasonably priced ones at Raymond's Quiet Press.

This aprondress is a wrap style.  Apron dresses that had some sort of opening to them used to be considered likely, but those theories have fallen out of favor with academics.  Despite that, some people like them still because they like the versatility in sizing that they get from the garment.  I personally do not prefer them because they do not sit well with big, heavy brooches without a belt but they still look nice.

Many vendors sell aprondresses now, and there are a variety of styles to choose from.  Some are more period than others, so whatever direction you opt to go with this garment is up to you.  Perfection is not required!  And if you sew, there are some very easy to make styles out there.  The Second Breakfast Dress that I talk about HERE is one of the simplest.

I love a peplos!  This garment can serve for early Celtic, early Saxon, Greek, Roman, and Migration period in Northern Europe. Depending on time and location, it can be worn over a sleeved underdress, a sleeveless rectangular tunic, or on its own in hot weather.  

For Fibula here I have some of the simplest ones that ThorThor sells.  His work is very good quality and very, very well priced.  It never hurts to have an extra set of pins or two around!

This, honestly, is a look I never stop loving in the SCA.  Here I have the Amazon dress over one of the underdresses that I usually wear with an aprondress or under a gown.  I like the layers and the drape.  Adding a veil, purse of some sort and a brooch at the neck of the underdress (or a simple bead necklace) and make this look "complete" with little effort.

I always wear a headcovering of some sort at events, and this linen scarf from Amazon makes a beautiful veil or head wrap and would work with any of the garments I showed in photos here.

A few final comments to wrap this up.  This dress would also work over PJ pants or poofy pants.  I know lots of folks who like to wear pants for events where they will be doing a lot of walking, and this still looks lovely with pants and a belt or sash.  While these photos really focus on women's wear, many men like long tunics they can wear on their own or over shorts (or pants), for basic garb.  Having a few basic tunics that you can wear in a variety of ways can really help expand a wardrobe.

Again, please feel free to leave your own suggestions for simple garb and reviews of items you have bought in the comments.  Please keep all comments positive (though I will allow negative reviews) and have fun!

This article is about Garb, and my personal perspective on it.  I ask that anyone who chooses to comment please read the whole thing first and understand that all comments must be positive in nature (I will delete anything else).  We have all heard about misdeeds of the past, and it serves no purpose here to retell these things.  Instead, I want a conversation about bringing more positivity and understanding to the game, about how to be more welcoming into our Society. There were be additional parts to this article coming soon.
 
So to discuss Garb, I want to first note what our governing documents say about it:

• Members dress in pre-17th century clothing styles worn all over the world and participate in activities based on the civil and martial skills of the period.
• Requirements for Participants at Society Events - Anyone may attend Society events provided they wear an attempt at pre-17th century clothing, conform to the provisions in Corpora, and comply with any other requirements (including but not limited to site fees or waivers) which may be imposed. At business meetings and informal classes, the requirement to wear pre-17th century dress may be waived. All participants are expected to behave in an appropriate and respectful manner.

This is what is required to participate in events.  Nowhere here does it say that the clothing need to conform to any set of standards.  Some other groups have guidebooks on the minimum requirements for participation, but we do not. These other groups actually recreate specific periods of history in a manner that is very much in the public-eye.  We are not those groups.

I have said this before, and will say it again, we have a minimum requirement for entry and that is actually a really, really good thing.  This allows us to show up at an event and test the waters before really making a commitment.  This allows us to wear something simple, if we choose, while trying to decide what it is that we really want to dive into.  This also allows those who really don’t much care about garb to show up in the basics and pursue their other passions, whether it is archery, or cooking, or illumination, without having to invest too deeply (in time or money) into a field that holds little interest for them. 
 
The exception here is those who are wanting to be considered for a Peerage.  There is an additional bullet under the General Requirements for Patent of Arms that reads, “They shall have demonstrated support for the aims and ideals of the Society by being as authentic in dress, equipment and behavior as is within their power.”  This is an entirely different situation than any I will discuss here, as I am mostly talking about newcomers, those in the Society who are still trying to figure out what they like, those who have interests that do not include garb at all, and casual players who want to be involved but with little commitment.
 
So let’s start with an example that I have used online before.  One year at Pennsic I was visiting Merchant Row (probably for the 20th time that day).  I love to browse the shops and chat with merchants and just really soak up the atmosphere there.  In one of the leather worker’s shops I saw a young man, adult but barely so (if he was old enough to drink it was just barely).  He was wearing dark sweatpants, an oversized t-shirt, that was bloused over a modern belt, and he had a cloak of some sort that might previously have been a curtain or sheer or something. 

This young man was excited to be there.  You can feel the joy of Pennsic rolling off of him.  He was in the process of buying a standard SCA-style belt pouch.  Based on the animated conversation the young man was having with the merchant, I am guessing it was probably his first purchased piece of garb and I was happy for him.  I was happy that he was there.  I was delighted that he was enthusiastic about his new purchase and the game he being drawn into.

THIS is the person I want to come to events, and to keep coming back to events.  It did not matter at all that his costume was comprised of modern bits, what mattered was that he made an attempt and showed up and was happily engaging in what it is that we do.  This meets the definition of “an attempt at pre-17th Century clothing” that is the base requirement for participation as far as I am concerned.

The fact is, he might have been anxious about his clothing choices before showing up at the event (many people are).  He might have become even more anxious about it once he saw some of the masterworks of art that surrounded him.  Some people are very unsure about what events are like, if their gear is “good enough” to even show up, or if they will fit in at all.  But he was still there making the best effort he could, and hopefully he is still around. 

Ultimately, the fact remains that this young man did not need my advice or help in any way.  He did not need me to tell him how to make a tunic or what he could do to improve his garb.  If he wanted assistance, there were plenty of folks to ask, or classes to take (it was Pennsic after all).  If he struck up a conversation with me about garb, that would open a doorway, but until then, there was nothing for me to do beyond smile at him let him finish his transaction with the merchant.

There are folks who come to an event because they heard about it online and really do not know what to expect.  They might show up in a cosplay creation, or something far more fantasy than medieval, or they might just be making do with a bedsheet toga because it was all they could manage on short notice.  Make them feel welcome.  Let them see what it is that we do and hopefully they have enough fun that they stick around and can learn our ways.  We are increasingly seeing more and more crossover with other genres of playing dress-up, and we need to be welcome them as the newcomers that they are if we want them to keep coming back and bringing their friends.  Yes, modern faeriefest attire is not part of what we do, but if we treat these folks kindly, they will stick around and learn what our hobby is all about and hopefully will dive in.  (Yes, the first SCA event did, in fact, have fantasy as part of it, but the group has evolved a great deal since then and we have formal mission statements, a historic focus, and even rules about certain things.  If anyone has an issue with that, that should be addressed to the BoD, and not screamed on public forums, or my blog either, because that serves no point at this time.)
 
For some people, glorious garb is part of what they bring to the game.  It really does help provide atmosphere in the way that pretty back drops or an elegantly dressed feast table does.  For others, what they bring to events is their service, or their prowess on the field, their laughter as they listen to a story while we feast.  Everyone chooses how they participate and what they will bring to the table at events, and I think we all need to respect that our choices in what to offer might differ than another’s and, yes, we are all most definitely welcome here.
 
So, this is where I stand, and yes, it is a hill on which I will die.  And while I don’t usually sling around an SCA title in conversations, I will do it here.  I am a Laurel whose focus is on clothing and textiles and material culture, and no, I am absolutely not judging anyone in their choices.  Most of the Laurel’s out there feel similarly, likewise with others who passionately work towards authenticity in dress as much as their ability (and wallet) will allow.  Everyone starts somewhere and follows their own path and own timeline and own passions.  We all need to embrace that idea a little bit harder and keep an open mind (and a closed-mouth if need be) when it comes to how others choose to participate.  When do we need to speak up?  When we need to encourage others, and to combat the misinformation that exists (did you know that many of the Ren Faire folks are afraid to try an SCA event because they heard that you have to have authentic clothes?).

And yes, this article is only Part 1.  Part 2 can be found HERE and 3 will follow soon, and hopefully it will help those who need to pull together easy garb for a first event, or perhaps it can even help experienced players to bulk up the wardrobe for events like Pennsic.