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Library: Cloth & Clothing in Early Anglo Saxon England

2/13/2018

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This book is fantastic.  I sadly missed my chance to buy it right before it went out of print (I had to choose between this volume and Heckett's book on the Dublin headcoverings), and I regretted not picking it up.  I did ILL and read the book, but that is not the same as having it in some form.  

If you are interested in Saxon costume, or early period costume, you really must download this book, which is now offered for free here:  http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-281-1/dissemination/pdf/RR145.pdf

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This book covers textiles, textile production, clothing, embellishment, and jewelry.  If you are interested in this time period, this book easily offers enough material to get you started.



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Ottoman Article

11/30/2017

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Below is the link to and article that discusses costume albums from 17th century Ottoman Empire.  The images are early 17th century and, despite that, are still used frequently by members of the SCA as documentation so I thought I would pass this one on.

267www.academia.edu/35176385/_Dressing_a_Citys_Demeanour_Ottoman_Costume_Albums_and_the_Portrayal_of_Urban_Identity_in_the_Early_Seventeenth_Century_Textile_History_48_no._2_Nov._2017_248-267


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Library:  Must Haves - Woven into the Earth and Medieval Garments

11/16/2017

5 Comments

 
I have so much to say about the Else Østergård's books covering the clothing finds from Greenland, but will try to keep it to the necessities.  I will note first that I feel that, in my library, that these books are regularly pulled off the shelf and put to use.

Woven into the Earth and Medieval Garments Reconstructed are companion volumes.  The former is a very detailed book that first discusses the excavations of the medieval Herjolfsnes churchyard, and then gives excellent information on the process of crating textiles in period.  If you are interested in wool, spinning and weaving, this book is a must-have for your library.  Textile production tools, wool locks, and some extant cloth is well photographed and included.

The next sections cover the construction and decorations of the garments, including some diagrams of stitches.  Following that there is discussion of other extant garments, such as the Moselund kirtle, that are similar to those found at Greenland.  Finally, each existing Herjolfsnes garment is photographed and described.  The book concludes with tables of the textile finds that have information such as weave and thread counts.

Medieval Garments Reconstructed is an elaboration on previous volume and specifically speaks to the individual who wishes to recreate one of these historic garments.  There is even more detail here in terms of things like stitches and seams and gives a breakdown of the sizes for each of the existing items and then offers diagrams that can be blown up for use as patterns for reconstruction.

The above images will allow you to click through to Amazon so that you can add them to your wishlist!
I will note here that the Herjolfsnes finds are dated several hundred years past the Viking Age. However, most of the information on textile production is still highly relevant as the use of dual coated sheep and the warp-weighted loom continued longer in Greenland than it did in many other places.  These books are fantastic for that information alone.  Beyond that, it is also important that Inga Hägg, in her work with the Hedeby textiles and garments, describes the construction of the garments there to be very much like those at Herjolfsnes.  Indeed, Hedeby shows us that the Viking Age Norse had some advanced methods of tailoring such as set-in sleeves, and, with some careful research, the patterns in Medieval Garments can help you to construct items that would fit well into the late Viking Age.  I personally used the books to pattern my first gown which I used for my Beyond the Aprondress class and handout.  ( ​awanderingelf.weebly.com/blog-my-journey/beyond-the-aprondresss ) 

I actually have both of these books in an electronic format, but also own the hard copies as well (and tend to reference those more often than my electronic copies).  They are great reference volumes and I often take Woven Into the Earth to events if I need to illustrate the process of crafting wool in period without taking my own bulky display. 

Because I also like to include some additional resources that fit well with these volumes, I also recommend downloading the two articles below:

Dress, Cloth and the Farmer's Wife by Michele Hayeur Smith:  This article gives additional details on textiles from Greenland, but also provides insightful information into what was being manufactured/used in Iceland at that time.  It can help provide insight into how the Greenland cloth evolved, and this information assist a Viking Age researcher better determine what information in the books above might be unique to Greenland.
www.academia.edu/7441906/Dress_Cloth_and_the_Farmer_s_Wife_Textiles_from_%C3%98_172_Tatsipataa_Greenland_with_Comparative_Data_from_Iceland

The Burgundian Hat from Herjolfsnes Greenland by Michele Hayeur Smith: This study redates one of the hats from Herjolfsnes.  The information given is very fascinated and shows us exactly how precious (and how often reused) cloth was in period.
www.academia.edu/23015256/The_Burgundian_hat_from_Herjolfsnes_Greenland_new_discoveries_new_dates
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Publications: Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland

8/23/2017

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Many cool Viking age things to be had here:  http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/psas/volumes.cfm
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Distaff Links

6/13/2017

2 Comments

 
Links to the papers for the International Medieval Congress gatherings.

http://www.distaff.org/?q=taxonomy/term/15

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Resources: Early Medieval Netherlands

5/23/2017

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For some time there has been a rather comprehensive thesis available online about clothes from the Netherlands in the early Middle Ages.  I saw that the book, Clothes Make the Man: Early Medieval Textiles from the Netherlands, that came out of that project was finally published last month and I posted a link for it on my FB page.  A friend then shared the open access link for the work and... well... go right now and pick this one up.

This book has VERY detailed information on the textiles from the finds (many of which, while not Scandinavian, are still Viking Age).  The later part of the book gives detailed analysis of what the costumes of these people might have been like, including drawings for male and female garments.  If someone was interested in building out a persona/kit for this time and place, this document is likely the best resource you could hope for.  It is pretty amazing.

Oh, and as a side note, if you want hats with "seam embellishments", this area actually has evidence of that practice in the Netherlands on high status items (note though, there are still no sprawling, giant herringbone stitches... this is compact narrow work comparable to Sutton Hoo and Mamman pillows).  Just thought I would toss that out there ;-)

https://openaccess.leidenuniv.nl/handle/1887/39627
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Publications: NOTÍCIAS ASGARDIANAS

4/25/2017

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"Notícias Asgardianas: Boletim do Núcleo de Estudos" is a series of publications that looks to have some fascinating topics contained within.  The issues are available for free for download online.  Below is the google translation of their about section:

The Asgardian News Bulletin publishes material relating to the studies of Medieval Scandinavia highlighting the areas involving Mythology, Religiosity, Literature, History, material culture, iconography and Archeology. In particular, we highlight the impact of the Nordic world of the Viking Era in the West and its repercussions to the present day, especially on art and the popular imagination. The newsletter is open to contributions from the academic community and the general public. The periodicity, starting in 2016, will be annual. Eventually, we publish special issues.   The newsletter Asgardianas News was originally published between the years 2003 to 2007, being resumed from 2012 by the NEVE (Nucleus of Vikings and Scandinavian Studies) in a new format and with a new editorial team.

I cannot wait to further explore these documents!

You can find them here:  
http://neveufpb.wixsite.com/noticiasasgardianas

Vikings e Escandinavos (NEVE)
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Archaeological Textiles Newsletter - FREE

3/24/2017

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ART has always had a number of issues available, for free, to the public.  Now, however, they have expanded that offering considerably.  There are some fantastic items in here for people interested in a variety of cultures and time periods!

http://www.atnfriends.com/
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Archaeology reports from Sweden

3/22/2017

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If you feel like digging around in Swedish this site is a gold mine.

http://digitalastadsmuseet.stockholm.se/fotoweb/

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Ottoman book download (free and legal!)

3/17/2017

0 Comments

 
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This is a fantastic resource to have in your library for Ottoman research for the SCA.  You can download it here:  ​http://www.nga.gov/content/ngaweb/research/publications/pdf-library/the-age-of-sultan-sueleyman-the-magnificent.html

There are a number of other titles (including several about artists pigments) that can be found on the site as well:  http://www.nga.gov/content/ngaweb/research/publications/pdf-library.html

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    About Me

    I am mother to a billion cats and am on journey to recreate the past via costume, textiles, culture and food.

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    Blogroll of SCA & Costume Bloggers

    Below is a collection of some of my favorite places online to look for SCA and historic costuming information.

    More Amie Sparrow - 16th Century German Costuming


    Gianetta Veronese - SCA and Costuming Blog

    Grazia Morgano - 16th Century A&S

    Mistress Sahra -Dress From Medieval Turku 

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    Loose Threads: Cathy's Costume Blog

    Mistress Mathilde Bourrette - By My Measure: 14th and 15th Century Costuming

    More than Cod: Exploring Medieval Norway

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