Are you aiming to dive into Viking clothing or looking to upgrade a more fantasy Viking Age wardrobe into something more suitable to historic reenactment?  There are many traps most folks fall into when they start out (myself included).  Below is a brief list of things you can do from the outset, so that you can better fit the scene, if that is your desire.  In the past, I have taught a short class in the SCA about how to start your first Viking kit in a fashion that can be built upon later, rather than having to be totally reworked, as you progress towards higher authenticity.  Many of these clothing items are mentioned in the class.  This article is specifically for the Viking Age and broadly covers Denmark, Norway, Sweden (but not Gotland, which has different clothing traditions), Iceland, and the British Isles.  This[MKB1]  does not apply to Finnish, Baltic or Rus clothing, and may not apply to every time and place even in the areas covered.  Further research should be done to better align your clothing and equipment choices to fit the culture and class of your persona.

Note, if you belong to a reenactment group that has specific standards or a guide book, one should always consult that book or the authenticity officers as to what is allowed.  If you do not care about historical accuracy and just want what you personally feel is a “Viking look”, that is fine, especially for the SCA or Viking or Ren Faires.  This article is not geared to telling someone what they are doing is “wrong”, but rather to help align the evidence and help those who might want to take the next steps towards a more realistic historic interpretation.

1.  1)Textiles – the most common textiles in the Viking Age are wool and linen.  The most common weaves are tabby (plain weave, also called linen weave or canvas weave) or twill (this is a diagonal weave structure such as you find in your blue jeans).  My charts HERE show how common different weaves were in different areas.  Researcher David Stříbrný also has an article HERE about how uncommon herringbone twill is in period as well.  I have another article HERE which will help you distinguish a period diamond twill from types that we do not often see in the Viking Age.  Plain tabby and twill in solid colors are the best choices for most situations.
2. Not every Norse woman in the Viking Age wore an apron-dress (or those that did might not have worn it in all situations).  I have an article on apron-dresses HERE and Hilde Thunem talks dress/tunic/gown construction HERE. This is fantastic, because brooches are often the most expensive part of a woman’s kit, and starting with a simple dress means you can sort out what details of your persona BEFORE buying that pricey bling.
   
3. While it is common to see sprawling herringbone stitch on the outside of seams in reenactment, this practice is not supported by evidence (nor is it actually practical, as the constant loops of the stitch can sometimes twist seams).  This practice comes from a misinterpretation of evidence from Mammen and I discuss it HERE and HERE. 
   
4. Since herringbone stitch is out, how do you embellish a garment?  I have ideas in a two part series of articles that start HERE. The article covers braids, cords, and trim made of silk fabric. 
   
5. Another option for decoration is tablet weaving, but keep in mind that period tablet weave tends to be very narrow and made of fine yarn.  We see more complex methods, such as brocading, than we do simple turn-based patterns.  If you plan to weave something, and are looking for accuracy, it is good to verify that the pattern you are working from is from the current state of research.  Many brocade patterns have been revamped into turn-based patterns and the effect is so vastly different that it really is not the same thing at all.  Silvia Asiling has a fantastic example of this on her site HERE.
   
6. Remember that you need not add decoration at all!!!  The quality of your textiles is often a better indicator of the status of your persona.  Add some jewelry or other accessories (time/place/status specific) and you can be of the highest status without the need to clutter your silhouette with “Viking-esque” popular cultural items.
   
7. Leather accessories – While we commonly associate belts and belt pouches with everyone in medieval or early medieval period, it would be good to look into whether this is actually something your persona would have had.  In many cases, women might not have work belts at all, and for men there is a tendency to go overly large and overly long with both belts and pouches (often, large belt buckles are for horse harness).  There is some great research on men’s belts HERE.
   
8. Proper headwear can make or break an outfit.  It is good to invest some research time into this before deciding what is proper for your persona.  There are reenactor myths that Christian Viking women covered their hair with a veil and that Pagans never did, and that statement is not supported by evidence.  A veil can be an item of fashion and practicality as well as an element of faith.  At times, it is possible that women chose to cover their hair for practical reasons (such as keeping smoke out of your hair or the sun from baking your head), and not cover it at others.
   
9. Heavy swags of beads with multiple strands or bead spreaders are exceedingly uncommon in the general Viking period.  Some graves that are wealthy enough for oval brooches have no beads at all.  At Birka, we see an average of 22.7 beads in graves (and many of those are small), and at Hedeby, the average is only 8.3 beads.  You need not break the bank to buy piles of beads to follow popular modern conceptions of what looks “Viking”.  Starting with a few handmade beads and working up a collection of accurate types is very appropriate.  Some of my bead research can be found HERE.
   
10. Heavy make-up (Heilung style), use of leather and leather armor (especially as “clothing”), knee-high boots, and ragged pelts slung over the shoulders or worn as cloaks are items of fantasy.  If your goal is accuracy, I would step away from these items and work towards grounding your kit in the evidence.

I have a number of articles here on my blog that can help sort additional items out.  They can be found the topics of Viking Costume: Beyond the Myth and Viking Textiles – Looking Deeper.  For excellent articles on costume I recommend Hilde Thunem and Susanna Broome.  For fantastic research on armor, weapons, leather goods, and more, I highly suggest David Stříbrný’s site.
 
Given that most of us do not launch right into high-end historic reenactment, we can take our time, start simple, and thoughtfully develop the details of our persona (time, culture, location, status, wealth, occupation, and circumstance) and build out from there, making upgrades or adding finer details as we go.

So I read this post today and this one is a total NOPE with me.

https://www.facebook.com/scaResearchBlog/posts/pfbid02ZsxMXSqCioiW4yMB6ZDEeo959jFbKtKJRsXx2iViktYCD4HD1GJkgoxdoQgwRb62l

So, when I first started and was at a meeting (which, in part, was for the founding of Sylvan Glen) and folks were explaining the SCA to us, we heard all about Knights and Laurels and Pelicans. But seriously, all I heard was _Knights_. Why? Because one of my draws for the SCA was the idea of armored combat and Knights in shining armor.

I listened in awe and was delighted when told that women could fight too! I said, then and there, "I want to be a Knight!"

Well, I never did don armor (bought some once, but that is another story), and would not have put that level of work into it anyways, but it was an amazing temporary dream that initially helped propel me forward in this hobby.

Back then (this was 30 years ago), you REALLY did not say you wanted to be a Peer (though it was easier to say you wanted to be a Knight than to belong to one of the other orders... sexist much???). I am very glad that no one told me in that moment that I shouldn't say that, because I might have opted out from all of this to start.

And yes, for a very, very long time I DID believe that it was not OK to say you wanted to be a Pelican or a Laurel. All of this sort of was equated in my mind with typically thankless work like being a mother or teacher or caretaker. (Again, sexist much????)

I was wrong to propagate those ideas then, even though I wasn't exactly going around telling people that.

I am, however, taking a stand now. See, I understand what the OP here is saying about perception, and how people will judge you based on words uttered, but the fact is, that is something we _have_ to change. I disagree with the fact that it was ever a thing and it Needs. To. Stop.

If you happen to be the one "judging" someone by the fact that they said they want to be a Peer, just stop that nonsense. It is not your pace to do so, EVEN if you are a member of the Order in question.
Why? Because what someone DOES is what matters. Period. Someone might just be new, or enthusiastic. No one should have to tailor a simple statement the make, because NO ONE should be reacting to that more than the actual actions.

You know what else? The person making that statement also might be neurodiverse, and expecting them to utter a phrase in a specific way in order for you to correctly "read" their "intent" is beyond wrong on your part. I confess, I used to be in this camp as well, and, looking back, I realize how intimidating it it could be.

And finally? It is not anyone's job to try to ascertain someone's motives (this was the most important lesson I learned from my Laurel). Chances are if you are doing that, you will be wrong. And that is not fair to the potential candidate OR the Order. Just stop. Further, if you hear someone remarking on potential motives of a candidate, TELL THEM TO STOP.

When all is said and done, what are the actions the person is taking? What are they showing, sharing and doing? Are they inspiring others? Look at those things as those are the things that matter. Your preconceived notion of their "motive" has no relevance here.

Is it possible someone is only doing something for an award? Yes, but it is not up to anyone else to determine that. If the work is there, and the PLQs are there, and they are inspiring others, that is all you get to go on when making that recommendation to the Crown. Work from the hard evidence and not what is likely just a reflection your own internal experiences or biases.

And for anyone out there who wants to be a Peer? Go ahead, tell me that. I might even talk to you further about it, and, if you are interested in next steps (though who can say whether they will eventually lead you to that moment) it I might even have advice to help you become better at your art or research.

What I won't do is tell you not to have a dream. What I won't do is till you not to say you want to be a Peer. What I might do is try to help you up your own personal game. What I will do is cheer you on in your personal successes.

SCA Reminders because I have had several conversations over the last few weeks about exactly these things, and they affect they have on people.

Now, I also realize most of the folks here are not gonna be the ones to do this, BUT you might be the one to overhear it and just might be the one that can shift the narrative and make someone else feel more comfortable. Also, this post is NOT the place to drag out horror stories from a decade ago, but I would happy to hear about those times that something inspirational happened, or of moments of exemplary courtesy.

1) There is no starting date for the SCA. Period. Doesn't matter what you thought it was or what someone told you it was 20 years ago (or even yesterday). It is in the rules. There is no starting date. And, in case anyone is really wondering, this rule goes WAY back. Yes, at one point the handbook listed 600CE, but even then the rule still said pre-17th Century. Also, we have had very Early period Laurels for a very, very long time, so clearly, these efforts have been officially recognized for a long time as well.

2) We are not Eurocentric. Yes, at one time we were (or tried to be), but we aren't now. And as with the above, even before the rules were re-worded to be more inclusive, there were still folks being recognized for their spectacular efforts in these areas. There is a whole world of incredible history that can be explored, and we should welcome that as a good thing.

3) Of members we expect basic courtesy towards others and an attempt at pre-17th Century garb. Key word here is "attempt". Someone might be new, or they might be at a different stage in their journey, or they just might be comfortable dressing a certain way. You do not get to define if an attempt is worthy or not unless someone asks you about it. Likewise, courtesy means that you also do not get too negate a conversation about very deep historic interpretations among those who wish to discuss such things.

4) Just because someone is decked out in splendid periodocity doesn't mean that they are looking down with you. That is their work and passion and they have a right to display it and talk about it. You could learn something from them, or they could learn something from you, even if it is not about garb at all. We all have our passions and are similar in our love of sharing the things that inspire us.

5) That item #3 is specifically about GARB. It has nothing to do with the the project someone is sitting and working on at an event. Is someone knitting a day-glow 1960's inspired sweater at an event? Good for them! They are crafting and that is amazing. Guess what? They know it isn't period, and it's not your business to point that out. Let them do them because I guarantee you that that if that sweater that someone is quietly knitting on the sidelines ruins your day, you need help from outside the SCA and should go seek it.

5A) If a kid is wearing a Hogwarts robe or a Disney Princess costume, just step down totally. It is hard to get kids to do anything sometimes and if that makes them happy, then the parents are happy, and, likely, everyone in the vicinity is happy.

6) There are modern things that are necessary for medical reasons... shoes and eyewear are the two most common. Someone might be in a glorious Elizabethan outfit but is wearing sneakers because that is the only way they can stay on their feet all weekend. Your comments are really not needed, and they are very likely already aware of it and feel self-conscious.

7) And while many do not like it, phones are everywhere and will be everywhere. Courtesy demands that we silence them during classes and courts, and if would be kind if we would look at them a bit covertly during those times (unless we are taking a photograph), but this _is_ the world we live in and those phones allow parents to keep track of children, or allow us to in touch with folks offsite. You never know what is going on in someone's life so, please, don't judge the person that frequently is checking their phone. Also, phones are great tools to keep kids quiet sometimes, and as with number 5, that is often in everyone's best interest.

8) There are also people who work very, very hard on the more actual reenactment end of what we do. You do not have to do go that route, but in their own groups or own spaces, they have that right. These folks love to engage with others, teach others and are often great resources to all of us even if we are just dipping our toes in the water rather than diving in the way they have. This would include things like battles at some events that have kits required for a specific time and place. Individuals are working very hard to create a setting to try to portray a specific thing. If you do not have the gear for that, there are other fights for you. And I bet if you opt to watch it, you might be inspired and most likely folks would give you information to work towards participating in the future. Another example is a band that uses only period instruments or that only performs one type of music. If you are not equipped to play with them, you can still enjoy their work and learn from them. Yet another example would be Enchanted Ground at Pennsic, these folks welcome you into their home and have a set of rules for behavior when you enter (no modernity). You can walk in and join in and be welcomed, or you can choose to do something else with your time. There are always options of other activities if you do not care for the thing before you.

9) The most basic premise is that we should all be having fun. Try to help others with their own brand of fun when possible, and share yours with those who express interest. Volunteer to work on some facet of an event if possible, as burn-out among the regulars is real. If you see someone looking lost, maybe you can guide them to something they would like or you just might be the person who makes them feel included.

I feel this is very relevant to share here. I have repeatedly ranted on my own wall on Facebook more than once about this weird transition about "Viking" things into something that is only barely related to history at all, just because we, as modern people, want to craft a mythology with which we can identify.

This article on Hurstwic largely focuses on combat, but there is much relevant to any period for reenactment and research. If you choose not to read it, I will leave you with what I consider the two most valuable parts of the piece.  You can read it by clicking HERE. 

The first is at the beginning and states, "We are not vikings." Fact. You aren't, and I am not. This is a group of people that are long gone. We can learn about them, study them, event try to reenact parts of their lives, but we are, in fact, not actual Vikings.  Nothing is ever going to change that.

And the second, and most important, is near the end... "Zeitgeist / Wishful thinking". Actually, please go read this. This specifically addresses the morphing of Vikings into some modern legend that largely strips away the reality.  

Is it fine for fantasy or a LARP? Are elements of this costuming even fine for the SCA? Yup, please, come sit by my fire at an event and have a drink and we can all have a good time together.  

The problem arises when someone tries to force the past to suit some sort of modern ideal that they want fulfilled. This applies to not just fighting but clothing, gender roles, spirituality or anything else. Research is complex, nuanced and never ending.  Trying to shift history to meet our own expectations is a very dangerous and slippery slope.  This is the type of thing from which terrible memes are made (and these memes often eventually get taken as utter truth... whether it is about the role of Norse women in history or ones about Turkish coffee houses in the 16th century or really extra stupid ones about how Savannah cats weigh 40lbs, these things are typically either laden with lies or just an all-out lie).

At some point, doing this becomes a lie, a rewriting of history to suit a personal fantasy. Be honest in your own goals and approach (and yes, "I like this specific look because it is fun!" is totally valid in the SCA, and there is no need to try to justify things with woulda/coulda/shouldas).  If you enjoy studying history, dig deeper, and learn more.  If you just want to play dress up (something that is totally valid), be honest in that that is your desire.

This article is the follow-up to my opinion piece HERE. 

This article is about Garb, and my personal perspective on it.  I ask that anyone who chooses to comment please read the whole thing first and understand that all comments must be positive in nature (I will delete anything else).  We have all heard about misdeeds of the past, and it serves no purpose here to retell these things.  Instead, I want a conversation about bringing more positivity and understanding to the game, about how to be more welcoming into our Society. There were be additional parts to this article coming soon.
 
I think I made my position on garb pretty clear in the first write-up in this series, I want to offer the reminder that we can be our own worst enemies at times.  I have spent more than one late night crying before an event because something I felt I “had” to have ready either wasn’t going to be finished or just plain wasn’t working out at all.  I think most SCA artisans do this at some point or another and we need to remember that none of this is actually necessary.
 
Would it be nice to show off the new dress?  Yes!  Should anyone else care if it is not ready?  Oh heck no.  Yet we put this pressure on ourselves and I find that newcomers, who might not even have been to an event before also feel that pressure to have the “right” outfit before they even know what “right” is.
 
Do you thrive under pressure and feel joy in wrangling that dress through the sewing machine at 3am?  Please, do so if you love it.  Do you really just _want_ more than anything to own that classic princess dress of your dreams?  Please then, make it!  But you are not require to put in these hours to please anyone else.

Other things to keep in mind when taking the dive:

• It is not necessary to make a new outfit for each event.  It is also not necessary to match the theme of the event if there is one.  I made that mistake for years and really got burnt out over it.
• Historically, most people had very few garments compared to today.  That means it is totally period to have a very small wardrobe!!! I even have a friend who goes to Pennsic (for a week or more) with only a couple of gowns and I think three underdresses is what she told me.  She washes out the underdresses after wearing them and so she always has something clean to wear.  This is a far more accurate way of doing it than my own rather expansive garb closet, lol.  Some people prefer to have enough garb to never do laundry at a long event, but this is still good to keep in mind that one can absolutely take this approach if needed.
• Don’t let the idea of perfection get in the way of actually coming out to play.  Your garb does not need to be perfect to come to an event.  This especially applies to relative newcomers, but still is good to keep in mind for long time players as well.  I would rather see someone show up in a tunic they just made tossed on over sweatpants because they did not have time to get the pants done, than to have them opt out totally due to lack of ‘period’ pants.
• You are not in a competition with anyone else.  Folks are not judging your garb by comparing it to the person next to you.  Even if you are entering a competition, you are likely being judged against a rubric (a set of criteria) and then whoever scores highest on that will win, rather than just comparing two entries to each other.
• We absolutely allow for accommodations.  Do you need to wear glasses at all times?  Do you have to wear sun glasses if the sun is bright?  Do you need to wear sneakers (or in my case, Birkenstocks) to prevent damage to your feet?  Do you not handle the heat well and find that short sleeves, even if not period for your persona, make Pennsic more tolerable?  Cannot afford wool or linen, cotton fabric is totally fine.  All of these things are more than reasonable choices and they should never be questioned. 
• Kids always get a pass.  Is your kid sensitive to certain fabrics?  Then don’t push linen or wool on them, a loose cotton tunic and PJ pants might be the way to go!  Does your little princess prefer to be a Disney princess?  Totally fine as long as they are happy.  The entire event is happier if the kids are happier so definitely do not fret kid garb!

 
Now let’s talk a bit about how to get garbed up. 
 
Sewing – This is the obvious one.  Learning to sew and taking time to make your own clothing is the most common approach.  The problem with this is that many people don’t like to sew, and they should not be pushed into doing something they really do not enjoy.  Some people know how and even enjoy it, but just do not have time for whatever reason.  Some people are happy to sew simple things, but not comfortable tackling bigger projects.  (For example, I don’t enjoy sewing, but will do so for some things, I do hate tailoring and pattern making with a passion though and go out of my way to avoid it.)  Others might want to learn, but have been unable to find a teacher and the pandemic has made SCA sewing gatherings much more difficult. So sewing your own garb is an option, and I will address some very simple options for that in the last part of these articles.  I will recommend that if you are new that you do opt for simple over complex for your first event.  One will see so many types of garb at an event that it can help overcome some uncertainty about what to make.
 
Gold Key – Is there are group local to you?  (https://www.sca.org/about/kingdoms/)  Many groups have what they call Gold Key Garb.  This is loaner gear that is set aside to help newcomers enjoy their first event with less pressure.  Some places have a well-stocked closet, others might have a simple cloak or tabard that one can wear and a mug to borrow to explore the event while you figure out what you might want to make or buy for your next one.  Talking to the local Chatelaine (an officer who can help with newcomer questions) can let you find out if they have loaner gear (and can often be helpful in other ways as well, these folks love to be helpful).
 
Thrifting – Some people love to haunt thrift shops, Goodwill, and yard sales.  Some items can be taken apart and have the fabric repurposed for SCA use.  A large men’s wool sport coat can have the fabric salvaged for a woman’s bodice, hats or other items.  Curtains or bedding offer large lengths of fabric that could become any number of garb items with some sewing skill.  Other things can be purchased and used as-is, because they meet the “attempt” that is required.  Long, full skirts, particularly in solid colors, can make a great base wardrobe item.  Modern tunics in woven fabrics (rather than knit like t-shirt fabric) might work over a long skirt or cotton PJ pants as suitable first garb.  Shawls can become cloaks, as can heavy wool blankets.  I know people who have found long, loose summer dresses in 100% linen at Goodwill.  Something like that can be a great item to have in the garb closet and you can accessorize it with a belt or sash and a veil and look fantastic at an event while learning more about different garb types to decide what you might like to pursue.
 
I think at this time I need to talk briefly about fibre types and how they might affect your comfort levels.  Linen is going to typically be your coolest fabric in hot weather due to the way it wicks sweat and draws it away from the body to evaporate.  One of the real pluses to linen is that it dries rapidly, which means you can wash out linen garments at Pennsic and hang in the sun during the afternoon and they will almost assuredly be dry by nightfall.  Linen-cotton blend is also a good call for hot weather.  Many people also find cotton comfortable enough (particularly very light weight gauzy cottons).  Wool is fantastic for keeping you both warm and dry, and very, very light weight wools can even be comfortable in the summer.  Rayon is a cellulose based fibre as well, but it is heavily processed and wrinkles very easily, but many applications of that have a nice drape that people enjoy.  It also can shrink drastically, but it can also be comfortable in hot weather for many individuals.  Synthetics like acetate or polyester typically do not breath well at all, but the nice patterns we sometimes find on home goods still make up into lovely garb (it just might not be the best choice for hot and humid events like Pennsic).  Synthetics typically will not do well around fire.  A pretty chiffon skirt might look lovely for dancing, but you will not want to wear it near a fire because one spark could cause it to either melt to you or go up in flames.  Learning about different weaves and fibre types can help you better search out thrifted items to expand your wardrobe.
 
SCA/LARP Vendors – Of course there are vendors that cater specifically to our hobby and I love to see folks supporting them as much as possible.  There are dozens of them out there, and I am only going to list a couple here because I have personally seen their wares and because they offer items at a low price point (such as basic tunics in linen for under $100).  There are artisan vendors that can make pretty much anything you would like to wear if one is willing to pay for it.


Neverland Designs - http://www.neverlandgarb.flyingcart.com/
This company offers a number of simple designs in linen or cotton that tend to be durable.  You can layer a shorter linen tunic over a longer one for a great look.  They have aprondresses as well. A long linen gown, a shorter flared linen tunic (listen under men’s on their site) and an aprondress could provide a versatile wardrobe.  Either dress could be worn under the aprondress, or alone, or both gowns could be worn layered together.  They also have decently priced chemises for those who like to wear bodices and skirts.
 
Linen Garb - https://www.linengarb.com/
This company is also fantastic for producing basic garments that have real lasting power.  They are currently trying to find a new source for linen, but I hope to see them start vending at events again soon.  They produce very nice tunics, pants and dresses and also have some fantastically embroidered specialty items as well.
 
Bad Ass Garb - https://badass-garb.myshopify.com/
I personally have not handled the clothing from this shop but know several folks who swear by it.  They do offer 100% linen tunics for men at reasonable prices on their site and the photos also show a variety of women’s wear.
 
Hooded Hare - https://thehoodedhare.com/
This company makes tunics, dresses and aprondresses in 100% linen that one can use for many years.  The decorated tunics are a somewhat fantasy interpretation, but they are a staple for many SCA wardrobes.  They are more pricey due to the work that goes into them but look and wear well.  They do offer simpler undertunics that fall under $100 for a 100% linen garment as well.

Grimfrost - https://grimfrost.com/ (Updated 4/1/22) - I was aware of this vendor but did not know anyone who has specifically purchased clothing there until last night so I am now adding them.  I have long known that the clothing was not suitable for serious reenactment, but based on the review last night the garments sound sturdy and they offer things like linen gowns for $75 and tunics for $69 which is not bad at all.  Their aprondresses with the side slits are a modern interpretation rather than historic, but they would still be more than suitable for SCA purposes if accuracy is not the goal.  
 
There are many additional SCA and LARP vendors online, but I have not personally been able to vet their wares, so will not go into detail about them here.  I would LOVE, however, if those who have purchased from other outlets would chime in in the comments with other options for affordable garb that folks can use to get started.  I will note that if you can afford an entire outfit to start, that Historic Enterprises (https://historicenterprises.com/) offers whole outfits and even does custom sizing.
 
Easy to Purchase/Inexpensive Mundane Crossovers – Another way to get quick and low priced garb is to search online for vendors that sell basic garments in natural fibres that can be repurposed to SCA use.  There are a few things to watch out for when selecting vendors:

• Don’t buy from Wish.  Just please don’t.  There are many unreputable vendors there who sell items that lie about metal or fibre content, and many that are just scams outright.  It is not worth the problems you can get by purchasing from this source.  See my rant about Wish here if you like.
• Vet other sources carefully.  There are plenty of vendors on Amazon that are overseas and it can take weeks to get your items, or where they are not returnable at all, or that the sizing is based on sizing charts in China and not what you might be used to in the US.  Read reviews carefully and also ask friends or SCA groups online if they have used these vendors.  If something seems too good to be true, it likely is.
• Facebook hosts a ton of scam ads.  Unless you know the company is legitimate, just avoid these completely. 

 
I personally have found a ton of wonderful linen or wool scarves/shawls on Amazon or Etsy that made for fantastic veils for SCA use (you can search this blog for headcoverings or scarf to see some I have reviewed in the past).  There is a brand named FLAX that sells very basic linen dresses, that while not cheap would make lovely additions to an SCA wardrobe (and occasionally these show up in thrift shops).  Garments like this can also serve two purposes as both SCA and modern apparel.

Things like woven (not knit t-shirt) PJ pants in solids or sometimes plaids are a great way to cheaply purchase pants to extend a wardrobe.  No one will see the waist band when a tunic is worn over them.  And if you already have solid ones that are knit fabric in your drawer, they will be passable for a first event as well.  Likewise, a simple pair of modern summer linen pants will be comfortable and passable when under a tunic.
 
I recently saw a conversation on Facebook about beginner garb and someone linked a shop called AnySize on Amazon that has cotton linen blend dresses at reasonable prices.  I decided to get one to check it out for myself and it arrived this week.

I opted for THIS ONE with ¾ sleeves, despite that that is not the most period of choices for many times and places.  I want the dress for working in camp at Pennsic and for working outside in the summer and that is just more practical for me for that purpose (and it is totally fine by SCA standards as well).  It washed and dried well (despite saying Dry Clean Only) and did not seem to shrink too much as the fit felt pretty similar before and after washing.  The fabric has a texture to it, almost like a very heavy gauze (or Deva cloth, for the local folks who might remember that stuff).  The weight is not bad for hot weather, I don’t think, but I have not been able to test it yet given that it has been snowing on and off here for the last few days.  It is not as smooth as a good quality 100% linen (though not scratchy at all), and it might further soften with wear and additional washing.  For me it will still be perfectly comfortable.  Long sleeve version is HERE (they have more than one long sleeve style so looking at their storefront can help you find those).
 
Regarding sizing - I ordered the Medium and it has almost exactly the bust size that the underdresses I make myself have (39-40” in circumference is what I usually make, my bust measurement is 34”).  I would say these run pretty true to size.  I am 5’6” so it is mid-calf on me, which is fine for me for hot weather or a work dress or for layering.  Some folks prefer to wear shorter garments regardless of any other factors (when I started I made a bunch of Ren bodices and skirts and those skirts were never longer than mid-calf on me, and I usually wore Docs for shoes and the world did not end over it).
 
The dresses also come in long and short sleeve versions.  These are essentially T-tunics and could serve well for a first dress or for bulking up a wardrobe for Pennsic.  In addition to having the option of wearing it on its own, I dressed up my dummy to show some additional options.  While I used this Amazon dress in my photos here, these would work with any basic garment (and serve to show why anyone could make use of a few simple tunics/dresses whether from Amazon, Neverland, or elsewhere) as part of their wardrobe.  While browsing Amazon I saw a number of vendors selling men's simple caftans in linen-cotton blend (my partner purchased one and I will review later when it arrives) and even cotton-linen drawstring men's pants.  If ordering something from a new source, I do recommend ordering a single item first and checking quality before stocking up.  lol

I also purchased another linen scarf (which can be found at Amazon HERE) that can be seen in these photos.  This one would make a great head wrap, veil or sash.  It comes in other colors as well, but note that some colors are cotton and others are linen.

This is where I need to crowd source.  Do you have basic garments that are reasonably priced (under $100) that you use for events that you love?  Please leave a review and a link in the comments so that others can see what their options are!

This is the basic AnySize dress that I chose.  If I was not trying to use it for gardening as well, I might have chosen the long sleeve version instead to test out.  It is comfortable and fits well enough, even if a little short.  This fabric does wrinkle though, but it survived washing and drying well.

This is a very common SCA look.  It is not pretending to be any specific time and place, but rather is a serviceable, comfortable attempt at a medieval look.  In the photo I have the AnySize dress over a plain linen skirt, and am wearing it with a ring belt (something far more common in the SCA than in history, but it absolutely works).  The last installment of this article will have some instructions for a basic skirt.

This is what I love to call an Ugly Skirt.  I love them.  This is actually a very period item for Bronze Age and Early Iron Age in Northern Europe (and possibly Central Europe as well).  The skirt is a rectangle of cloth sewn up one side and the top and bottom edges are hemmed.  I have a wool woven belt that holds the skirt up.  (A wool belt is key here as you need the grip to keep the skirt from slipping out.). This is an instance where the 3/4 sleeves are perfectly period, so this look works pretty well over all.  You can typical find basic tablet or inkle woven wool belts at events for sale or on sites like Etsy.

Here I have the dress under a long-ish aprondress for a Viking look.  The brooches here are reproduction ones, but you can find reasonably priced ones at Raymond's Quiet Press.

This aprondress is a wrap style.  Apron dresses that had some sort of opening to them used to be considered likely, but those theories have fallen out of favor with academics.  Despite that, some people like them still because they like the versatility in sizing that they get from the garment.  I personally do not prefer them because they do not sit well with big, heavy brooches without a belt but they still look nice.

Many vendors sell aprondresses now, and there are a variety of styles to choose from.  Some are more period than others, so whatever direction you opt to go with this garment is up to you.  Perfection is not required!  And if you sew, there are some very easy to make styles out there.  The Second Breakfast Dress that I talk about HERE is one of the simplest.

I love a peplos!  This garment can serve for early Celtic, early Saxon, Greek, Roman, and Migration period in Northern Europe. Depending on time and location, it can be worn over a sleeved underdress, a sleeveless rectangular tunic, or on its own in hot weather.  

For Fibula here I have some of the simplest ones that ThorThor sells.  His work is very good quality and very, very well priced.  It never hurts to have an extra set of pins or two around!

This, honestly, is a look I never stop loving in the SCA.  Here I have the Amazon dress over one of the underdresses that I usually wear with an aprondress or under a gown.  I like the layers and the drape.  Adding a veil, purse of some sort and a brooch at the neck of the underdress (or a simple bead necklace) and make this look "complete" with little effort.

I always wear a headcovering of some sort at events, and this linen scarf from Amazon makes a beautiful veil or head wrap and would work with any of the garments I showed in photos here.

A few final comments to wrap this up.  This dress would also work over PJ pants or poofy pants.  I know lots of folks who like to wear pants for events where they will be doing a lot of walking, and this still looks lovely with pants and a belt or sash.  While these photos really focus on women's wear, many men like long tunics they can wear on their own or over shorts (or pants), for basic garb.  Having a few basic tunics that you can wear in a variety of ways can really help expand a wardrobe.

Again, please feel free to leave your own suggestions for simple garb and reviews of items you have bought in the comments.  Please keep all comments positive (though I will allow negative reviews) and have fun!

One thing I love about the SCA is that it is full of communities of all sorts.  I think very few of us only fit in in one spot, but rather, have a wealth of “micro communities” within the Society that have different roles in our lives at different times.
 
I fall into the community of my household, Shire and Kingdom.  I have tangential households that I do not belong to but I know that will always welcome me.  Likewise there are other regional groups in which lived in the past (or have never lived, lol), where I know many people and feel “at home” with them.  I belong to an incredible group that is headed by my Laurel that includes her apprentices, as well as those of us who have been elevated and our apprentices and students.
 
There are also groups that have focuses on certain areas or topics.  Things like guilds fall under this, where there might be experienced folks helping newer people better their skills with a certain craft (such as a spinning guild or cooking guild).  We also have people who flock to the fighting field or the archery range and participate heavily in those communities at events.  I will migrate to costumers, weavers, spinners at events, as well as those who are dressed in early period clothing, because we all share a common interest.
 
e-SCA, with all of its imperfections, is also full of communities.  I will be honest that I largely find the bigger, more general Facebook groups, to have more than their share lurking trolls and malcontents that are just there to stir up drama.  Over time, I find less and less value in these avenues (though can still be amazing resources for newcomers looking for advice on how to get started with various things).  Where online communities really shine for the SCA is the niche groups. 
 
I belong to a number of Facebook groups for Viking clothing and material culture, bead making, weaving, and other interests that closely match mine.  Many of these are not SCA specific, but I think that is a good thing as we can sometimes get too easily caught up in our own ideas that get circulated around the SCA and it is good to see what discoveries other reenactors have made.  I even belong to some groups, like one for Elizabethan Clothing, even though I will never make an Elizabethan dress, just because the group is well managed and I enjoy seeing the content that comes through my feed on Facebook.
 
I have also seen groups that get some occasional activity, but there are days between posts (or weeks), and in a couple of cases the group admin said they wanted to shut the group down because of lack of activity.  People often do not realize you have to “grow” a group, and feeding and nurturing it is part of that.  Rarely will you be able to start up a group and have it take off and flourish without at least some work.

If you are considering starting a new group, consider first whether there is a need for it.  I started my Viking groups on Facebook because one of the popular groups had a few nasty people in it that the mods rarely did anything about, and the other rocked back and forth between two wishy-washy and too strict for my tastes.  The subject matter is wildly popular right now, so there was definitely “room” online for another in this field.
 
It is also a good idea to frame out the purpose of the group from the start.  There are groups for Viking clothing and groups for weapons and other gear.  Many of those interested in textiles and sewing techniques do not want to drown in miles of posts about sword types, so the division makes perfect sense.  Do understand that the narrower the subject matter, the fewer people will likely find it suits their interest (and that is really ok, quality engagement with like-minded individuals is far better than trying to collect overall audience numbers).
 
Consider also if you know enough about the topic yourself to provide assistance for others if they need it (or do you at least know where or to whom to point them).  A bunch of unanswered questions day-after-day will cause the group to falter.  You do not need to be an expert, and it is totally ok to start a group with the intent of learning about a topic _with_ others, just make that clear that that is the purpose of the outlet. 
 
Hopefully you know several others who either share your field of interest that you can invite to the group from the start.  If you do, strike up a conversation and invite them to share their work, research or expertise there.  If you do not personally know anyone, seek out those that you see in related forums and invite them to participate.  Not everyone will have time to join every group invite they get, but it never hurts to have that conversation.  You do not want the group to become an echo chamber of your own ideas.  We can best learn by sharing our ideas, getting feedback, and listening to the views of others.
 
I would also recommend that in addition to being clear about defining your group parameters (historic time and place, culture, craft, etc.), that you develop a set of clear rules for group behavior.  One of my groups is very clear that if you post a photo of your work that it is open for commentary (the purpose of the group is not to blindly say “oooo pretty shiny thing”, there are other outlets for a stream of constant feedback of that sort).  It is also clear in the rules that if you give feedback it must be kind and constructive.  If someone questions your comments, you better be prepared to back it up with a source (and “I read it somewhere” is not a source).
 
Finally, be prepared to feed content into your own group.  This is where the earlier examples lapsed before they complained about their groups failing.  This also helps to illustrate the type of content you hope others will share there.

Group members might not have time (or confidence in some cases) to contribute original posts, but love to read posts or look at pictures.  This is especially useful in niche groups for things that are less commonly studied.  This is the type of thing that can inspire someone with a mild interest in your field to dive in completely.  There is a wealth of things that can be shared such as artifact photos, amazing recreations, links to academic articles, lectures or publications, the list is really as endless as the internet is.

And that last actually leads me to another thought I want to share.  For a couple of years I saw one person complaining over and over online that there wasn’t a Laurel in their Kingdom to talk to about their specific area of interest.  There actually were a few, and there were also loads of other non-Laurels with excellent work or research in that specific field as well (plus many more with over-lapping fields), but this person was so hung up on their desire to have a direct-dial connection to a Peer that they were missing opportunity to try to BUILD a community of like-minded individuals.  As artisans and researchers, networking is very, very important.  Our work does not exist in a vacuum and you never know who can help you fill in pieces of your interest’s specific puzzles.  Building framework for a specific community is a great way to do this.  It can generate more interest in your area, which creates (eventually) more subject matter experts, and the result is that we can all exponentially grow from those connections.  It also better rounds out the knowledge base in an area.  The more people involved also mean that there will eventually be more classes on topics and hopefully judges better equipped to handle entries from this field in competitions.  (Laurel hint here – being able to connect people with like interests is actually part of the job as I see it.  As you grow as an artisan or researcher, you meet people in your field, but also those in tangential fields.  You learn who does what in that way and then when someone comes to you with questions you cannot answer, you know exactly where to send them.)
 
My final comment here is one of thanks to those who, over the years, have helped groups online succeed, both the groups I run and those in which I love to participate.  Those who answer question, provide content, who call in the admins when trolls go wild, every one of those people contribute to the overall success of an online community and I absolutely appreciate their work and inspiration.

There has been a great deal of discussion over the last few years in the SCA bout diversity and equality, about opening our arms and (helpfully) making others welcome.  I think that this is not only essential to the survival of the Society, but it is, honestly, the right thing to do all around.

One topic that I saw just recently is that some PoC feel uncomfortable with titles such as Master or Mistress.  I can say that I never really looked at it in that manner, but yes, I can see that being a problem.  While some are resistant to change, I have seen the vast majority my friends embracing the idea.  It is an opportunity to make a welcoming place for others, and I am very much on-board.

Yes, it is one step, a first step for many, and hopefully we will be able to work to make additional changes as needed to welcome others into this weird world of the modern Middle Ages.

On a personal level, I never have the expectation that anyone remember my title, let be required to use it (though I am flattered if someone does).  MOST Laurels that I know feel this way.  Really.  I know newcomers can be flustered by all the coronets or regalia or titles, but it is perfectly ok to ease into the in-game culture and we ALL forget (ALL the time).  

It is OK.

So now I am actually enjoying the exploration I am seeing for alternative titles.  A few friends are going to opt for Laurel (FirstName).  That absolutely works, and might make for a safe new “general” title that anyone could use if they do not know the preferred persona-based title someone might use, but want to make a formal introduction.

For a new cultural based title I have been following conversations online, and have seen variants of teacher or professor and find that line of thought very appealing (I love teaching so very much).  I sourced Laurel Fridrikr Thomasson (I am unsure of his chosen title), as he is a student of Old Norse, and he suggested Lærimoðir, which translates as “lore mother”.  I LOVE this.  Love it so much.  I asked for the pronunciation and was told “lair-i-moth-er”, which is indeed awful close to the translation of Lore Mother that I wonder if just using that would be “ok”?  Even more exciting was my discovery that it is already on an accepted alternative title list - http://heraldry.sca.org/titles.html#Viking%20Icelandic.

So yes, I can identify with this.  

But the reality is, if you are shouting across a crowed room for me, the absolute best way to get my attention is to just call for Elf, because I will more readily respond to that than even my given name (especially in an SCA environment).

So a friend recently did an awesome thing, and I have to share it.  It is not only unique and visually quite stunning, but I absolutely love how she handled the overall process and I want to get it the bandwidth it deserves.

For those who have not met her, Hypatissa Anna Dokeianina Syrakousina, runs the blog Anna's New Rome, and is a Baroness and amazing researcher and artisan in the SCA.  She is also mundanely a historian, and that shows in her work, but I also think that this specific project really shows how others can make a step forward into new areas even without modern credentials to back them.

Her COVID project was Hittite clothing.  This is (I think) and unexplored are in the SCA and I love that people are starting to step away from the things we see at every event and digging into lesser known cultures or periods.  

Here entire thought process is part of her blog post which can be found HERE.  Please take your time to read it and check out the photos of the two outfits she presents as part of her first draft of this work.

I think it is obvious that I love to blog my own projects and experiences (even if rural internet is my downfall lately as it makes posting very difficult).  But I also love to look at the work of others and want to share some things I love about this project in particular.  If you are trying to figure out how to start something new, or want to organize it for a blog, this definitely serves as a nice example on How-to.

1. It is well, and simply, organized.  She gives a brief introduction on who the Hittites were.  This is key because it is a lesser known culture in an SCA context and this allows the reader, who might love the outfit enough to want to craft one, to be able to also relay that information when someone complements their garb.
2. She was starting fresh with this project (her area of expertise is Byzantine), so she gave a run-down of the types of sources there are, and what she knows about them. 
3. As she lists her choices, she gives the rationale behind each.  This helps others understand they why's behind what they see and also might inspire other ideas for things to try.
4. Photos!  Nice, clear photos that make the garments easily readable to others.
5. Observations - this is one of the best parts of this blog post. She already is learning what works and what might need changed, so that she (and the reader) can take the next steps better informed.

I do want to call out one additional, and very key, item.  Early in her post she makes the statement, "At this point, as the research appears to be super-new, I understand that this body of work will raise more questions than it will serve as answers, and I am willing to bring forth that needed dialogue, and accept changes will need to be made this early in the study. As far as I know, I am the first SCAdian, and possibly scholar/experimental archaeologist to try this. Please be patient with me as I iron out the kinks, and work to determine the best patterns and ideas before adding a ton of information that may not be correct. I know that some of this reads a bit choppy, I plan to flesh it out as I continue to build my arsenal of sources."

I think that sometimes we can be paralyzed with the idea of starting a new work, especially if it is something less well known.  There can be fear and trepidation of somehow doing it all wrong.  Be honest as to where you stand with the work and how far into the process.  Every single thing we do in the SCA had a start somewhere.  At one time all the Viking women were wearing two tea towels pinned at the shoulders and the more we learn, well, the more we learn.  

Part of working with history in the manner in which we do is accepting that this is an ever-evolving science, in our own personal work, as a group of re-enactors as a whole, and in the broad scope of historic studies in the world today.  We all start somewhere, and it might not be right the first time around, this is why we document things, share them, discuss them, research more, and then revise the whole process. Admitting that we do not know everything there is to know about something (even if we are currently wearing it) is not something to be ashamed of, but rather it speaks to our curiosity and our willingness to keep learning.  Baroness Anna is already digging into more resources and talking to others who work in this field to help expand her work in the area, and I absolutely am looking forward to seeing more.

The Holidays are upon us and I thought I would share some ideas of things the Viking Age reenactor in your life might enjoy as gifts (and, of course, the wonderful vendors from whom you can purchase these items).
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Feed the Ravens is quite possibly my favorite vendor ever.  I love the exceptionally high quality leather work and pottery that they craft and the assortment of jewelry and tools that they carry.  They also often have unique items that one rarely sees elsewhere.  Currently in stock they have period blacksmith tools, brass chain for suspending tools from brooches, reindeer antler drop spindles (I have two of these that are my favorites for spinning flax), and jewelry!  They also have leather goods and pottery.  I recommend talking directly to Maggie or Scot about what they have now or perhaps to place a special order for the exact item that the Viking in your life has been coveting.  (And yes, I confess, this is my personal favorite vendor ever!)

Timeless Textiles sells EPiC wool yarn.  This is a 2/18 wool yarn, dyed dozens of wonderful colors, that is very smooth and quite strong.  I find that this works exceptionally well for both tablet weaving and for use on other types of looms.  Unlike some other brands of similarly sized yarn, this is a true worsted spin and does not have little flyaway hairs that will cause your warp to bind up.  They even sell a sample pack of swatches so that your favorite weaver can keep it on hand for project planning.  (And bonus, they also sell Bocken's linen thread in colors!  This is great for hand sewing.)
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Historical Glassworks, this artisan carries glassware that represents numerous time periods and locations, from Roman, to Viking and into the Renaissance (and later)!  They also have a wonderful selection of handmade gifts that can appeal to those who are not interested in recreating the past.  Their holiday ornaments, candle sticks and glass bracelets immediately come to mind as beautiful items that many would enjoy.

Crafty Celts, well, what can I say beyond the fact that I have long been a fan of this vendor.  Do you need a new Knight's chain?  Celtic animal pendants or brooches?  Bracelets (that, honestly, look just as great outside of a historic setting as they do inside)?  Also, this is the vendor to hit up if your Secret Santa target is a fan of the History Channel's "The Vikings" as they supply much of the jewelry used in the show.

The Practical Viking is a really cool shop to visit at Pennsic.  They provide a great atmosphere and sometimes even have dyeing demos or other happenings in their booth.  They carry an assortment of items that appeal to Vikings such as hoods, legwraps, cool cookware and even adorable Viking dolls!

Oxbow Books is not a vendor of handcrafted items, but rather is a publisher of academic books.  They carry many of the volumes that help the us piece together the past.  Most reenactors that I know have a long list of books on their wishlists, so it might be worth seeing what they would love to read next and purchase that as a gift.  (Note that they also have a fantastic section of sale books that can be a real bargain.) 

I had no idea until today that I have never shared this here before (though I have talked about it many times on Facebook).  Reproduction silks have become very popular among Viking reenactors, thanks to several companies, including Sartor.  The problem with most silk textiles that we use is that they fray like crazy (and the shreds will cling to everything, and pull more our of your precious investment as you work).

My solution to this issue is to prevent the fraying even before I cut my cloth.  To do this I mix a small amount of white glue into some water. It should be some what thin.  I lay my cloth flat on a nonporous surface and draw my cutting lines on the cloth with a pen or chalk.  I then take a paintbrush and paint the glue mixture over my cutting lines.  I allow it to dry fully and then cut the fabric as normal.  If you cut before you treat, the cloth edges will wumple up as it dries.  Painting the lines on before cutting prevents that.

Note that I do NOT use fraycheck, or other types of liquid stitch products, as they can eat away at silk.  Also, if you drip it onto the cloth, the cloth will forever have a spot on it, whereas you can use some water to further dilute the white glue and get it out of your fabric before it is damaged.  Plain white (elmer's) glue also has no fumes.