My new brooches arrived today and I love them!  They are based on a find from Kaupang and I cannot wait to start some new garb to go with them!

I purchased these, as well as the buckles my BF wanted, from Torfin on Etsy.  I am very pleased with the weight and quality of these items (especially for the price).

One question that often comes up on message boards is whether or not plaids are appropriate for a Viking reenactor.  It is not an easy answer, but I have been putting together a list of things as I come across them and, in all honesty, I would have to say that at this point I personally would be very careful of what patterned fabrics I would use for a period impression.

If we look prior to the Viking age, we see a host of exceptional plaids.  Hulremose had an exceptional plaid from the an Iron Age bog find that is dated to the 2nd century BC.  Thorsberg, from the 3rd to 4th century CE has also yielded large, bold plaid textiles. 

The Viking age, however, does not seem to show the same love for vibrant, large scale patterning.  The technology was certainly there to craft large plaids or stripes, but the evidence that they were used is lacking.

What we do have, however, is a small selection of woven patterns that show a much smaller scale.  Delicate lines comprised of a single thread, or pair of threads, creating a repeating pattern, is much different than their more tartan-like predecessors.  I have looked at the mass of articles and books in my collection to see what sort of patterning was used and after eliminating all silks (likely imports) and self-patterning (meaning that the pattern was either a result spin-patterning - using S and Z spun threads in the same textile - or using threads of different grist to weave cloth with a plaid or stripe) I have found the following examples of patterned cloth from the Viking era and in Viking areas:

• Hedeby Graves Linen - Windowpane plaid linen.  This type of textile was found in two graves.  One was blue with white patterning and the other was red with blue, both of a tabby weave.  The patterning was TINY, the white and blue resulted in 4mm checks.  These textiles were likely from shirts or serks (underdresses).
  

These items are excluded from my list above due to date, or in the case of the Skjoldehamn find, due to the fact that it could potentially not be a Norse item.  I still consider them when looking at textiles to use, but would not choose something based solely on these finds were I looking for a patterned textile for a more accurate costume.

I do recognize that there are, of course, a couple of issues with looking at historic textiles in terms of color.  Often textiles are not analyzed for color, and tests can also come back inconclusive.  So there could indeed be more patterned (or even colored) cloth than which we currently can consider.  That being said, the sampling we do have is so exceptionally small in terms of the overall volume of finds, that I believe that patterned textiles in this time period were indeed in the minority.

Does that mean that I would never choose to use a plaid or stripe for a new piece in my Viking kit?  No, but any purchases I make from this point on will take into consideration that the evidence does show me one clear thing and that is the importance of scale.  The stripes tend to be narrow, and the plaids or checks are tiny.  Things that read as modern, such as pinstripes, might actually be a much better choice than plaids that would be better suited to a kilt. 

Were I to come across a larger, two-tone plaid or check in a heavy fabric, I think it might suit well enough for a cloak or blanket, but I would not choose to use it now as textile for a garment such as a tunic, dress or pants.  The larger checks from Haugen in Rolvsøy, which is a coarse textile, as well as the coarse, loose wool from Værnes seem better suited to those types of applications.  (And I would, at this point, only look at items with two colors, as seen in those fabrics as well as the Thorsberg and Skjoldehamn cloaks, rather than a plaid of many colors.)

Examples of fabrics I have or will be using, and my current thoughts on the choices, are below so that you can follow along with my thought process on this if you so choose.

Does this mean that you should never use that great paid you have in your stash for a Viking costume?  Of course not!  We are free to use what we will and I always advocate for "Use What You Have" when possible.  It is, however, good to know what the extant pieces looked like, and how frequently they were found compared to other types of cloth, when we go out to purchase new fabric for a historical garment.

And please, if you have evidence of other stripes, checks or plaids, I would absolutely love to see them!!!

To help give a sense of scale, I have included a single page that can be downloaded and printed on 8.5X11 inch paper.  This printout should be close enough to the correct size to give a rough sense of scale for these historic plaids.

RESOURCES

Blindheim, Charlotte. Vernesfunnene og kvinnedrakten i Norden i Vikingtiden, 1945.

Christensen, Arne Emil and Nockert, Margareta. Osebergfunnet: bind iv, Tekstilene (Universitetet i Oslo), 2006.

A.W.Brøgger. "Rolvsøyætten. Et arkeologisk bidrag til vikingetidens historie" _Bergens Museums Aarbok_. 1920-21

Geijer, Agnes.  Birka III, Die Textilefunde aus Den Grabern.  Uppsala,1938.

Hägg, Inga.  Die Textilefunde aus der Siedlung und us den Gräbern von Haithabu (Karl Wachlotz Verlag). 1991.

Hägg, Inga.  Die Textilefunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu (Karl Wachlotz Verlag). 1984.

Pritchard, Frances.  "Aspects of the Wool Textiles from Viking Age Dublin", Museum of London.

These Finnish sheep are a separate breed from the Finnsheep and are primarily bred for meat.

All lambs are born black, but they often fade to gray as they get older while maintaining black legs and faces.  Their  coats range from more wooly to more hairy.

They are prolific and can mature in only three months and lamb twice a year.  (Aholan Farm)

Fiber Information*:

• Staple length:  The samples I had were all 2.5-4 inches 
• Fiber description:  Locks were smooth with gentle waves and curled at the tips.  Shorter locks (presumably from the neck area) were comprised of tiny curls.
• Notes:  I had samples from three different animals (white, gray and black), all had a bit of lustre and were smooth and delightful to spin.

This breed of sheep was developed in the early 20th century using the Manx Loughtan, moorit Shetland, Soay and wild Mouflon stock.  Coloration is light or dark brown and both males and females are horned.

Fiber Information*:

• Staple length:  1.5-3 inches (the sample I had was less than the 1.5)
  
• Fiber description:  29-35 microns (can often be more fine).  Locks are short and do not taper.  Fleece and Fiber source book mentions that they can have tips bleached in the sun and this held true for the sample I purchased.
• Fleece size:  2-3lbs
  Animal size:  Rams are 120lbs with ewes weighing 85lbs.
  
• Notes:  The fleece I had was very short and springy and reminded me more of the Soay that I have than any Shetland I have spun.  The exceptionally short staple made it hard to spin, but I would love to get another sample at some point to test it out again.

The Åsenfår is a small sheep from Sweden that is a member of the forest sheep classification of animals (also included are the Gestrikefår, Helsingefår, Svärdsjöfår and Värmlandsfår sheep).  These are hardy animals bred to live on less pasture in the summer and poor feed during the winter. (Skansen.se)

Rams are typically horned and ewes are usually polled but might have scurrs.  They come in a range of colors including white, brown, gray and black. 

Fiber Information*:

• Staple length:  Two of the samples I got were approximately 4 inches and one was 4.5
• Fiber description:  Smooth wool with nice curl and waves.  Double coated fleece but not too much difference between outer and inner coats on one of the samples.
  
• Animal size:  Rams 100lbs, ewes 70lns 
• Lanolin:  These fleeces were fairly greasy.
• Notes:  The grey fleece I had that had coats of similar size and grist was very pleasant to spin (I liked all three, but that one was my favorite of the lot).  The above right image is of the sheep from flock from which my samples came.

For the second time in the history of the event, there was an A&S War Point at Pennsic this year.  The premise is that AEthelmearc/Allies and the East/Middle each would put together a team of artisans who would display their goods in a competition.  Members of the Order of the Laurel and those who have received grant level Kingdom arts awards were encouraged to go to the display and vote for the best entries.  At the end of the day the points for each team would be totaled and a winner declared.

I was beyond honored to be chosen by the Crown of AEthelmearc to be one of its Champions on this "field of battle".  The experience was incredible and I hope that this competition will become a permanent part of future wars. 

Our team had a Facebook group that allowed the artisans to collaborate, assist each other and give feedback in the months that lead up to Pennsic.  Working collectively like this was wonderful and allowed everyone to best present their wares during the competition.  I think that there should be more opportunities for artisans to work collaboratively like this because it really does encourage growth and give you ideas to help strengthen weak spots.

The East/Middle won the war point, but all of the entries were quality.  A few things really blew my mind to see them.  I already look forward to seeing the offerings of next years chosen Champions!

Pennsic was different this year, but still amazing.  I left for War with trepidation for the first time ever.  With my kitty being sick, my (FANTASTIC) boyfriend elected to stay home from the event and care for the little guy to both give me a respite from caregiving and to allow me the time to teach and compete in A&S at War.  Even with him watching his little buddy, I was nervous about going away.  I was waking up at 6am worried that I had missed giving a shot.  More stress, and less sleep, than I am used to getting at Pennsic (where I usually get my best sleep of the year).  That being said, Pennsic was still amazing.  I took some great classes, taught two classes, and delved into new activities such as volunteering to work the Hospitality for the Royal encampment and retaining for the first time.  (Apparently if you loudly ask if there is something you can do to help, someone WILL find a job for you.  LOL)

The people made this Pennsic fantastic and allowed me some time away from my worries.  I connected with so many completely fantastic artisans.  I had great conversations about fiber, food and Norse culture.  I relaxed and laughed in the shade with my household and met wonderful friends I had previously only met online.  I ate yummy things in camp and the market and while I did not do the power shopping I usually do, I came away with delightful things.

I chose this year to not participate in the Pennsic A&S Display, instead, my wares were shown as part of the A&S War Point competition.  I was beyond honored to be selected by the Crown to represent this fair Kingdom in this capacity.  I have so much to say about how amazing this whole experience was that I will have to tell it all in another post tomorrow.  It was an incredible honor and possibly the most amazing way to interact with other Artisans. 

I was honored again during Court when I was inducted into the Order of the Fleur (AEthelmearc Arts&Sciences award).  My scroll, which can be seen in the gallery below, is a beautifully crafted piece that includes images of medieval women working with fiber!  I cannot wait to have it framed and hang it in my weaving studio!

I will also have some other posts forthcoming about this War, including one covering some of the conversations I had about honor, sharing and chivalry.  I want to compile one as well on my own growth in the SCA and as an artisan, but that will take some time and thought to put to words.  And, as always, I have been inspired to research more and create more.  I also have some ideas for direction and things I need to do to improve both my work and how I present it.

One of my highlights of this year was to get word that a very, very well-deserving friend received a writ for a Pelican.  I can think of no one in the Society who exemplifies what it means to be a Peer than this individual.  That news made the entire event for me.  :-)

There were so many incredible moments that happened this year at Pennsic that I find it difficult to compile them all.  Below are just a few things that I will carry with me for quite some time.

1. After AEthelmearc Court on Tuesday of War Week I went to a vigil.  The area was lovely, food and drink were laid out, and there was a harp player providing entertainment.  People milled about in their best attire and made for a very lovely scene.  As it got dark, several of us sat in a tent, at a wooden table lit with candles hand sewing the Laurel cloak for the lady on vigil.  That moment, with a crowd huddled around the soft light chatting about the day as we sewed, it was easy to believe that I was, for one moment, living in another time and place entirely.  It was an amazing moment.
2. Given that it has been many years since I attended Great Court at War, I opted to get up early and go watch the Kingdoms process in for the event.  AEthelmearc (being the home group) was already on the field waiting to receive the "invaders" and I moved to the front hoping to be close enough to actually hear what was going on for once.  As people milled about, there was much chaos and I asked someone I had met when working Hospitality if there was anything I could do to help.  An adamant "Yes" had me retaining for the next 4 hours.  I have never done this before as I assumed you had to have an idea of who was who in the Kingdom and all of that.  It was an enlightening and exceptionally fun experience (so fun I signed up for a shift the next day as well).  I met many fantastic people and felt like I was actually doing something to help the folks who do much to provide a fantastic atmosphere at Pennsic.  (I also learned a great deal about exactly how BUSY the Royals are at War, and wow, they barely stop moving even to eat.)
3. I know that many groups of fighters use trucks to haul themselves and their gear to and from the battlefield.  I understand why, and do not blame them.  There is one group, however, that camps down the hill from us at Pennsic that every single day MARCHED, and sang as they did so, up the hill and towards the battle.  I thanked them the last time I saw them before leaving, as to hear them come (and in the manner in which they did so) really added something to my mornings.
4. A&S - there is not enough that I can say about how fantastic my arts experience was this Pennsic.  I connected with so many great people, who are working on great things (and who are willing to share them with others).  It would be hard for me to leave any Pennsic uninspired, but this year I was given artistic inspiration and food for thought that will last me well past next Pennsic!
5. This one is silly, but I actually bought one of the Pennsic mugs from Beast and Boar for the first time ever.  I am usually not up top enough to really make use of it, but this year I think it was a life saver.  I was able to refresh and rehydrate each time I passed through the market, and now I have a mug to remind me of the good times I had for the rest of the year.
6. One thing I never tire of at Pennsic is sitting in my camp, next to a fire, and listening to my camp mates sing during the night.  One lovely lady in my group even wrote a Viking song this year that I hope she continues to sing. 
   
7. Also about my group, I have to mention that it is exciting to see some people in my household exploring new things.  Some are learning to sew garb and some are choosing to explore costume from new areas and some are working to improve their general kit.  The lady who wrote the Viking song mentioned above also took the time to hand sew the edges of a Viking dress she made.  Further, someone in the market stopped her and gave her a token for making such a lovely attempt at period costume.  I love seeing people get excited about exploring new A&S outlets!
8. Teaching.  I love teaching classes and love that my class seemed to be well received.  The class during the first week started out with a fire extinguisher "incident" that ended up working out in our favor because that class was packed and we had to move to a larger tent (that actually did a much better job of holding the number of people that showed up).  I got some good feedback after the classes that should help me streamline it a bit and make me sound a bit less hyper when speaking.  I look forward to teaching again this fall.
   
9. The People.  I met SO many amazing people.  I could probably write a book about it.  But as it is, I will just say here that once again it was the PEOPLE who make Pennsic an incredible experience.