Next month is the Siege of Glengary, in the Shire of Sylvan Glen in AEthelmearc!  I have seen this event grow so much since it's inception and I am very looking forward to attending this year.  ACCEPS is up for registration and more information can be found here:

http://www.siegeofglengary.org/

And on the Facebook Event:  https://www.facebook.com/events/286513651479153/

It will be held in conjunction with the Metal and Glass Symposium so there should be some pretty awesome demos and classes in addition to the variety of other activities that Siege offers.  There also will be feasting, and bardic and general revelry!  In addition to all of those magnificent things, I will be teaching my "Step Further from Fantasy" class (with an extra focus on Ottoman garb) for those interested and those who are planning to make new garb for Atlantia's Ottoman 12th Night (which is actually quite local to Sylvan Glen).

And speaking of Atlantia 12th Night, the event site is up for that as well!

http://twelfthnight.atlantia.sca.org/

And the Facebook event:  https://www.facebook.com/events/607254779297319/

I love to eat.  I also enjoy cooking, though the day-job somewhat impairs my desire to do that on most days.  I enjoy most SCA feasts and getting to sample various period dishes (or even the quasi-period ones).  On occasion, I even like to test out recipes that SCA chefs or cooking Laurels have posted online. I also enjoy working the kitchen when my boyfriend or friend's are in charge of a feast.

This spring I actually was responsible for the outcome of two dishes at a Viking era feast.  One of those was based on a recipe I had provided, but I wasn't actually planning to be the one to execute it at the event! 

Note that this is not a fully researched recipe, and not a redaction (because there are no extant recipe books from that time), but it is based on period ingredients and period cooking method and makes a passable dish that people seem to enjoy.  I do not plan to devote most of my limited research time to cooking (costuming and fibre arts are my true passions), but I have to say that I think I might be digging into this area just a bit further in the future.  I love pulling many things together to better develop a persona and an understanding of how that person would have lived.

I am posting this "recipe" here because I have had friends ask how to replicate it.

Viking Stew (Crock-pot Version)
Coat large piece of beef with flour (no, I cannot document that practice at all, but it is one I typically employ while cooking).  I have used sirloin once when it was on sale, but often just use whatever cheap stew-meat they have at the store the day I plan to cook this (1-2lbs typically).  Brown the meat in butter over med-high heat then place in the bottom of the crock-pot.

Lightly cook two medium onions (cut in quarters and then segmented) and two or three stalks of celery, chopped in the skillet used for the meat.  Add these items to the crockpot.  (If you were going to slow cook this on the stovetop or in an oven rather than the croppot, you would keep everything in the same pan.)

Deglaze the skillet with a bit of beef stock and scrape that into the crockpot.  Pour additional stock (I use an entire 15oz can) into the crockpot and add a bottle of ale.  Add salt to taste and several sprigs of fresh thyme.  Add a 2-3 teaspoons of honey and 2 teaspoons of cider vinegar.  Lay in carrots, turnips and 2 dozen prunes.

Cook on high in the crockpot for 2-3 hours (or until the meat starts to fall apart).  You might need to occasionally stir or rearrange the mixture to ensure that all components cook fully.

Recently there was an interesting conversation about Ghawazee coats on one of the Ottoman costume discussion lists.  It was informative to me to see how others feel about this ubiquitous SCA garment.  During this talk, it was obvious that there was some confusion from newcomers as to what exactly made a Ghawazee coat different from a more period coat and this got me thinking about my own progression through Middle Eastern costume in the SCA.

I created this timeline of my attempts at Middle Eastern costume in the SCA in part to illustrate the differences in coat construction between the Ghawazee coat and a more period correct coat and also to show that no one "gets there" in a day, or even a year!  There is always more to learn and explore, and new things are brought to us daily by archeologists, academics and other researchers in the field.  It often takes years (or a decade in my case!) to soak it all in and apply it to our wardrobes and attempts at recreating the past.

In the past I have always used the "SCA standard" rectangular cut tunic pattern for my Viking underdresses.  It is pretty much the Birka cut tunic from Mistress Þóra Sharptooth's site here:  http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html

As you can see in the photo to the left, this cut of tunics works very well with my aprondresses.  Despite already loving this style garment, I was curious to try the Hedeby style underdress as well.  I most often choose a very fitted Hedeby style aprondress (curved side seams, potential for darts) and wanted to explore a possible complimentary underlayer.

The Hedeby underdress has set-in sleeves.  Ironic given that when I started in the SCA I was told that early period garments never had set-in sleeves and that rectangular construction was the One Right Way to make a tunic.  Set-in sleeves, I was told, was appropriate only for much later periods.

The Hedeby style tunic dispels some of those early myths.  There was clearly an armscythe as well as close shaping along the body.  I finally set about making dresses in this matter this past spring.

I started by taking the image of the extant fragment to the left and blowing it up and cutting my first mock-up.  After two more rounds, with minor modifications each, I had a comfortably fitting body and moved on to tackle the sleeves.

As you can see on the above right, to get the curve for the top of the sleeve, I took my front and back bodice (stitched together at the shoulders) and laid them on fabric to trace the curve for the sleeve.  I smoothed out the in the center.  The sleeve needed only a bit of easing into the arm hole and my final mock-up was complete.

Below you can see images of the standard rectangular cut tunic (brown) and a Hedeby style tunic (green).   The Hedeby one, in this case, is actually sized a little larger than the Birka style dress.  I made one a similar size, but it was so dark in color it did not photograph well.

The internet has been a wonderful thing for amateur researchers, especially those interested in historic costume.  When I started in the SCA 20 years ago, there were few books on our topics that were easily accessible (and those were not always good).  Now there is a wealth of images and art right at our fingertips. 

A word of caution though, just because something is on the internet, with a caption or citation, does not mean it is correct ;-)

While working on my Ottoman Pinterest page, I came across a few things that reminded me that one always needs to double check source material.

The stunning coat on the left was on a Pinterest page of Ottoman textiles.  It is listed as being from the 10th Century.

If one follows the image to the source, one will see that that was actually a mislable or a typo and the Met museum has its information as ate 19th–early 20th century. 

Much better.

The lovely painting of a woman on the left was also on Pinterest.  The pinner has listed this image as 15th Century Ottoman. 

Alas, this painting is from the 1700s by Ottoman miniaturist Abdulcelil Levni.  (Yes, we all love those sleeves, but no, they are not the best choice for someone in the SCA to use for recreating period dress).

The trouble with this image is that if you follow the pin to the original source, you will find a forum, full of images, all of which are listed as 15th Century Ottoman.  There are even captions and comments on many of them about how things like the underbust look was common for the 15th Century...  (Note, this is a non-SCA site, but the images are still very much mislabled.)

The message here?  Double check your sources, and then look at where those sources lead.  A role-playing forum is really not the best choice of resources for reconstructing period costume.  If you pull an image from someplace other than a museum, university or expert, try to track down the original (usually this will lead you to a wealth of other information as well).  And note, even sometimes the experts are wrong...

There has been an article going around the Viking communities lately that has a lovely strand of extant beads. 

The problem with this is that the article (linked below) actually has an incorrect photo with it.

http://www.vikingrune.com/2010/04/glencurran-viking-necklace/

The correct image can be seen here:  http://pinterest.com/pin/438397344947515036/

Quite a bit of difference, is it not?

In addition to the List of Links for Atlantia's 12th Night (http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/1/post/2013/08/list-of-links-ottoman-version.html) I have compiled a Pinterest page with examples from art, extant pieces and some wonderful work by individuals in the SCA.

http://pinterest.com/alfrunketta/ottoman-and-middle-eastern-costume/

More will hopefully be added after I get additional permissions from people to post their pictures to the page!

My next weaving project will be some mat-type rugs for in our tents at Pennsic.  I have a large quantity of rug wool from the auction last December.  Most of it is the mustard yellow above.  I plan to use it as both the warp and weft, with occasional stripes of other colors.  I will use a twill alternating with a basketweave.

I chose to do a small sample first, as I have not yet woven a stiff fabric and I wanted to make sure I had the sett correct before warping the loom with several yards of yarn. 

The sample in the middle is the first I wove, and it turned out exactly how I want the mat to look.  The sett on that piece is 10 per inch.  After weaving that (and trying doubling the weft a few inches in - an effect I did not like at all), I cut it off and put a 15 dent reed on my loom and sleyed every other dent for 7.5 ends per inch.  That sample also came out as expected and is a weft faced weave and much thicker than the first piece.

Because there was still a bit of warp left, I resleyed the 15 dent reed at 15 ends per inch to weave that narrow sample on the left (note, all other factors, such as number of threads and weave structure remain the same), and produced that very tightly woven piece.  Unfortunately, that thread did not like running through the narrow channels of the 15 dent reed and the yarn was fraying and breaking.

Next weekend I will start to measure the warp for the first rug!

On the non-weaving front, I am still mired in Pennsic laundry.  8 loads done and at least 6 or 8 more.  lol  I did pull out fabric for the next several projects while cleaning out the weaving studio, so that makes me happy.

I also got a bonus lesson how to file, sharpen and oil knives (and oil leather) as my Bf was cleaning all of our blades after Pennsic.

The Kingdom of Atlantia is having their 12th Night in an awesomely local location (DC) and even more awesomely, it will have an Ottoman theme.  I will post more details as they are offered, but I am very excited about this event!

http://acorn.atlantia.sca.org/event_info.php?event_id=2f5db391

To aid those who want to pursue and authentic look for the event, I have compiled a list of links that can help them.  Additionally, I have a WIP Pinterest page that will have images of art, extant items and members of the SCA displaying their wonderfully period attire. http://pinterest.com/alfrunketta/ottoman-and-middle-eastern-costume/

Ottoman Costume:

“The Costumes of Ottoman Women” – site with a downloadable PDF as well as many images of period art.  Some falls outside of the SCA time period, but there is a great deal of information on costuming for an Ottoman persona. http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/OttomanCostume.htm

"Ottoman Turkish Clothing handout" - Mistress Safiye Konstantiniyye's hand out on Ottoman clothing.  http://valkyrja.shawwebspace.ca/pages/view/ottoman_turkish_clothing_handout/ 
Her files (including diagrams): https://lisafiyespics.shutterfly.com/files
Look at her amazing photographs here:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/lisafiye/sets/72157623206924208/

“Images of Turkish and Ottoman Dress” – site with images pertaining to men’s Ottoman costuming of the 16th and 17th Centuries. http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/TurkishMuscowCostume.htm

“Dar Anahita” – extensive site by Mistress Urtatim bint 'abd al-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi that covers clothing, food and persona information for many cultures in the Middle and Near East (including Ottoman).  Included are pattern links, recipes and images of both art and extant textiles. http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/directory.html

“The Ottomans” – excellent site covering both the history and culture (including clothing) of the Ottoman Empire.  http://www.theottomans.org/english/index.asp

“Ottoman Clothing in SCA Period: An Overview” – Information on Ottoman costume, layers, construction and fabrics. http://www.scribd.com/doc/2900/Overview-of-Ottoman-Clothing-in-SCA-Period

Ottoman Empire Clothiers Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/437487859670259/

Coat Pattern:  Instructions for making an Ottoman or Persian coat as well as other layers to complete a look. http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/1/post/2013/03/a-step-further-from-fantasy.html

“Ottoman Turkish Garb: An Overview of Women’s Clothing” -  Image heavy handout about Ottoman costume.  Contains both diagrams for clothing construction and period examples. http://www.katjaorlova.com/FemaleTurkishGarb.pdf

“Ottoman Turkish Coats” – Information on layers, fabrics and construction: http://baronyofatenveldt.org/uploads/library/Ottoman%20Coat%20Handout%202011.pdf

Henna in 16th c Ottoman Turkey - http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/turkish/ottowomen.html

“Çintamani” – Article abut Ottoman decorative motifs.  Includes image of art and extant textiles: http://home.earthlink.net/~al-tabbakhah/cintamani.html

Extant Textiles and Garments:

Freer/Sackler gallery Style and Status Exhibit links:
http://www.asia.si.edu/exhibitions/online/styleAndStatus/
http://www.asia.si.edu/explore/teacherResources/ConnectionsFall2005.pdf
http://www.asia.si.edu/explore/teacherResources/ConnectionsFall05Poster.pdf

Slide show from the Ministry of Culture in Turkey showing extant caftans and textiles.  Look closely at the dates as some items are out of period.  (The Next button is in grey in the lower right corner): http://www.turkishculture.org/picture_shower.php?ImageID=1835

Ottoman caftans and shirts: http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/I_03_01.htm •Photo gallery of Imperial Ottoman caftans:  http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/clothes

Turkish Cultural Foundation – Images of extant textiles and clothing (some are post-period):  http://www.turkishculture.org/fabrics-and-patterns/fabrics-and-textiles-67.htm http://www.turkishculture.org/textile-arts/clothing-159.htm

Extant Persian Chemise (Pirahan):  http://medieval.webcon.net.au/extant_perisan_kamis_14thc.html

16th cent. caftan fragment - http://www.discoverislamicart.org/database_item.php?id=object;ISL;uk;Mus03;42;en

The Art of the Ottomans before 1600 – Metropolitan Museum of Art: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/otto1/hd_otto1.htm •Imperial garment- http://www.ee.bilkent.edu.tr/~history/topkapi.html

“Silks from Ottoman Turkey” – Met museum page with images and information on period and out of period Ottoman silks:  http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/tott/hd_tott.htm

“Caftans – Ottoman Imperial Robes” – blog entry about Imperial Caftans with images of extant coats: http://bikemibrahimoglu.blogspot.com/2010/04/caftans-ottoman-imperial-robes_22.html


For those choosing to be a Persian or other visitor to the Ottoman Court:

Persian Costume:
“Persian Clothing of the 16th Century” – Duchess Roxanne Farabi’s guide to Persian clothing. http://www.willofyre.com/roxanearticle.pdf

Master Rashid’s Persian Patterns: http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/Rashid/

“Pre-Mongol Persian Costume Or 11th and 12th Century Seljuk Dynasty Costume” – Earlier period Persian costuming with many fantastic images from period art and diagrams for creating the correct looks.  http://windchild.net/pre-mongol-persian-costume-or-11th-and-12th-century-seljuk-dynasty-costume/

“Recreating the Costume of Medieval Persia” – Image heavy site with period art and diagrams for reproducing the looks seen in art. http://members.iinet.net.au/~richard.cullinan/index.php/Persian_Costuming

Persian Clothiers Facebook Group:  https://www.facebook.com/groups/228818680565289/ •Persian University: http://www.scapersianu.com/

Egyptian Costume:
“Life Under the Fatimids: Clothing, Women’s Undergarments, Veiling and…A Winter Image of Fatimid Cairo!” – Information on Fatimid Egypt and the clothing including appropriate layers. http://simerg.com/literary-readings/life-under-the-fatimids-clothing-women%E2%80%99s-undergarments-veiling-and%E2%80%A6a-winter-image-of-fatimid%C2%A0cairo/


General Middle Eastern Costuming Information (Including Myths):

“Pre-1600 CE Middle Eastern Garb Do's and Don't's” – a nice guide for ascertaining what is and is not period and on how to improve one’s period wardrobe. http://www.willofyre.com/periodmideastgarb.html - about

“Mistress Safia’s Garb Haven” – site with a collection of images, links and articles for Middle Eastern Garb. http://www.willofyre.com/aboutsafia.html

Middle Eastern Dance Guild: Garb Page –  Includes both images and links for garb sites.  http://awalimofstormhold.wordpress.com/garb/

“A Step further from Fantasy”:  Guide to many of the “Middle Eastern” looks you see in the SCA and how to take steps toward creating a more period wardrobe.http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/1/post/2013/03/a-step-further-from-fantasy.html

“An Overview of Middle-Eastern Garments of the Middle Ages” – Listing of costume components for various time periods and regions. http://home.comcast.net/~mikibu/Articlefolder/an_overview_of_middle.htm

“Dar Anahita” – extensive site by Mistress Urtatim bint 'abd al-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi that covers clothing, food and persona information for many cultures in the Middle and Near East.  Included are pattern links, recipes and images of both art and extant textiles. http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/directory.html

“SCA Near Eastern Cultural Myths” – Mistress Urtatim’s list of myths concerning both culture and costume: http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/MEMyths.html

Pennsic was wonderful!  A huge thank you goes out to my Household, my Laurel, my friends, the lovely teachers and students and also to the wonderful Staff who all made this event spectacular.  This really has to be the best Pennsic I have ever had.  From the weather, to the food, to the music and the fun, it was just a really incredible experience.

I want to go back.  Immediately.  ;-)

My new tent (a Panther wedge) was amazing!  Just enough room and no worries about water collecting on the roof at night (my camp sits on a slope and the Marquee style tents tent to be off kilter enough when planted like that that they hold water).

The tent is dark, which allowed me to sleep in past 7am (amazing feat when I am camping) and a small fan in the front kept it cool on warmer days. 

Looking for a new, easy to set-up period tent?  I cannot recommend these enough!

This Pennsic was also an amazing A&S year for me!  I taught tow classes that were filled with wonderful students (one was Middle Eastern Dance and the other was Middle Eastern garb).  I also got to take a class on sprang and two amazing spinning classes. 

And speaking of spinning, the Highland Foorde spin-in was marvelous and I got to meet several lovely women there! 

And because I have wonderful campmates, there is never an end to amazing food!  Here is Sir Xen preparing some amazing paprika pork for dinner.  Thanks also to Rosamund for dinners and for Meabhdh and Sorcha for their kitchen contributions as well.

I will also never forget the night of Midnightsies - best Pennsic food ever!

I came away from Pennsic inspired and feeling truly healthy.  I cannot wait until next year to return Home.

And because even the most wonderful things must end, here was the first night back in reality with my baby kitton curled up next to me (the cats at least were glad we opted to return to the real world).