In the past I have always used the "SCA standard" rectangular cut tunic pattern for my Viking underdresses. It is pretty much the Birka cut tunic from Mistress Þóra Sharptooth's site here: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html
As you can see in the photo to the left, this cut of tunics works very well with my aprondresses. Despite already loving this style garment, I was curious to try the Hedeby style underdress as well. I most often choose a very fitted Hedeby style aprondress (curved side seams, potential for darts) and wanted to explore a possible complimentary underlayer.
The Hedeby underdress has set-in sleeves. Ironic given that when I started in the SCA I was told that early period garments never had set-in sleeves and that rectangular construction was the One Right Way to make a tunic. Set-in sleeves, I was told, was appropriate only for much later periods.
As you can see in the photo to the left, this cut of tunics works very well with my aprondresses. Despite already loving this style garment, I was curious to try the Hedeby style underdress as well. I most often choose a very fitted Hedeby style aprondress (curved side seams, potential for darts) and wanted to explore a possible complimentary underlayer.
The Hedeby underdress has set-in sleeves. Ironic given that when I started in the SCA I was told that early period garments never had set-in sleeves and that rectangular construction was the One Right Way to make a tunic. Set-in sleeves, I was told, was appropriate only for much later periods.
The Hedeby style tunic dispels some of those early myths. There was clearly an armscythe as well as close shaping along the body. I finally set about making dresses in this matter this past spring.
I started by taking the image of the extant fragment to the left and blowing it up and cutting my first mock-up. After two more rounds, with minor modifications each, I had a comfortably fitting body and moved on to tackle the sleeves.
I started by taking the image of the extant fragment to the left and blowing it up and cutting my first mock-up. After two more rounds, with minor modifications each, I had a comfortably fitting body and moved on to tackle the sleeves.
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As you can see on the above right, to get the curve for the top of the sleeve, I took my front and back bodice (stitched together at the shoulders) and laid them on fabric to trace the curve for the sleeve. I smoothed out the in the center. The sleeve needed only a bit of easing into the arm hole and my final mock-up was complete.
Below you can see images of the standard rectangular cut tunic (brown) and a Hedeby style tunic (green). The Hedeby one, in this case, is actually sized a little larger than the Birka style dress. I made one a similar size, but it was so dark in color it did not photograph well.
Below you can see images of the standard rectangular cut tunic (brown) and a Hedeby style tunic (green). The Hedeby one, in this case, is actually sized a little larger than the Birka style dress. I made one a similar size, but it was so dark in color it did not photograph well.
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