Normally I have an idea and then I research the snot out of it and then I come to a conclusion and then post it here.  Right now I don't have time to hit the books, but a conversation this weekend with someone about the Hedeby dress made me start to think and I want to save these thoughts until I have time to look at the evidence in a new light.  (In fact, this might already be answered, but I just don't have time to dig right now. lol)

What I am wondering is was the dart in the Hedeby dress made before or after the application of the braid decoration.  In Hägg's Textilien und Tracht in Haithbu und Schleswig, she discusses the idea that the aprondress (fragments H14) had more than one life, that it was worn as an aprondress and then later reused and worn under layers (and under a belt at that time).  If that were true (though I am not sure how we can really tell that, but it definitely is fascinating to consider), then perhaps a woman of status had the garment for a time and then it was cast off and a servant or someone else wore it as a body layer under a dress to help retain warmth.  This led me to think about the weird external dart.  Can we tell from the evidence that this dart was created and then the braid was sewn over it, or, perhaps, did the original dress have the braid applied and at a later time, someone added that dart below it for some reason?

Yeah, I need to look at this all again, when I have more time than I do right now (because really, I don't have much time for anything at the moment)!

I have to admit that I am just a little obsessed.  I have a whole bin now of headcoverings, or textiles from which to craft them, at this point.  And I keep getting more.  I do want to know that up until this point that all of my purchases (and subsequent reviews) have been just from me finding things, buying them, trying them out and then talking about them.  None of those posts were sponsored in any way.  The review below, however, is sponsored because the shop owner offered me a deal I could not refuse ($1 for a linen scarf if I would review it).  So yes, this is a sponsored post.  I will note, however, that it is still honest and it is the same post I would make anyways, because that is just how I roll.

This particular scarf is from LinenWorld8 on Etsy.  I previously bought a couple of scarves there, which I reviewed earlier.  I choose a dark orange one because it is a color easily obtained with madder and the item I received well represents the color shown on the site.  It retailed for $23, and in my opinion, is well worth the cost.  It is 24"X74", which makes it a great width for my Viking Age veils.  With one scarf I could cut down the cloth and make a veil (24"X36") as well as a scarf and cap).  This is not quite long enough for me to tie up as a Slavic headdress, but I might asked the shop if they can craft these at this width, with some extra length as I think it would work well at Pennsic.

The edges for this one are completely unfinished (which I knew when I chose it, as it was shown in the photos).  I will either pull a few more weft threads out and tie off fringes, or more likely, just hem the item for use.

To compare this item to the linen scarves I previously purchased from this vendor, I have to say that this one, unlike the others, has an incredible drape, and is quite soft (even more soft than the burgundy one that is very similar to it).

The only gripe I even have is that in the initial add for the item it is mislabled as being twill.  I could see in the photos that it was tabby weave, so I purchased it (I need tabby for a Viking Age headcovering like this).  In all, I will absolutely be purchasing more items from this vendor!

I am really deep into a research project right now that is eating my time, so I have not had anything new to post here (though please follow my FB page where I am regularly sharing new books and archaeological finds).  I am excited about my new project have books on order and am experimenting with new-to-me techniques.  Fun times!

This doesn't, however, stop me from mulling over a ton of other things in my head, especially during my very long commutes each days.  One of those is about color in the Viking Age.  Archaeology tells us that they had a range of dye stuff to use.  We see walnut browns at Hedeby, reds that stand the test of time at Oseberg and blues pretty much everywhere (and far more than this brief list).  

One thing I often see when reenactors are looking at textiles for sale (for a new garment, that is often to represent someone with at least some amount of wealth) and ask online if that cloth is an appropriate color, is that people will respond to anything in a red, yellow, blue range (and others) with a resounding YES, even when that color might be exceptionally dilute (to the point of being pastel).  Is that color feasible with period dyes, of course!  However, would it really have been worth it to a person in period to use something as precious as madder to get only a very pale pink, or would it have made far more sense to wait until you gathered enough (or could afford enough) plant matter to produce a well-dyed garment.  

I understand that yes,  dyes will fade, but realistically, by the time that that happens, that garment would likely either 1) have been re-dyed or 2) be moved from serving as a "better" dress, to, perhaps, work wear?  I also realize that you would not be likely to wast the partly exhausted dye bath, and would opt to dye other things, but again, would you really be dying your new body garments this way?  Would it not be better instead to over dye an older item, or dye some leftover yarn for some other purpose, or perhaps over dye a naturally pigmented brown or grey wool to change the shade?  

Due to textiles degrading in the ground, I dont know that we could really prove this, but we do see a number of textiles from period that still have a very clear, well-saturated color to them, and those things make me wonder if someone long ago would have liked a soft blue garment as much someone today might.