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Musings (with nothing yet to back it up)

10/29/2018

1 Comment

 
Normally I have an idea and then I research the snot out of it and then I come to a conclusion and then post it here.  Right now I don't have time to hit the books, but a conversation this weekend with someone about the Hedeby dress made me start to think and I want to save these thoughts until I have time to look at the evidence in a new light.  (In fact, this might already be answered, but I just don't have time to dig right now. lol)

What I am wondering is was the dart in the Hedeby dress made before or after the application of the braid decoration.  In Hägg's Textilien und Tracht in Haithbu und Schleswig, she discusses the idea that the aprondress (fragments H14) had more than one life, that it was worn as an aprondress and then later reused and worn under layers (and under a belt at that time).  If that were true (though I am not sure how we can really tell that, but it definitely is fascinating to consider), then perhaps a woman of status had the garment for a time and then it was cast off and a servant or someone else wore it as a body layer under a dress to help retain warmth.  This led me to think about the weird external dart.  Can we tell from the evidence that this dart was created and then the braid was sewn over it, or, perhaps, did the original dress have the braid applied and at a later time, someone added that dart below it for some reason?

Yeah, I need to look at this all again, when I have more time than I do right now (because really, I don't have much time for anything at the moment)!
1 Comment
Diane link
10/30/2018 10:06:33 am

It was the quality of the apron dress fabric that made Inga Hägg believe that it was once worn by a high status person and then later, when it was too worn, given to some servant. In "Vikingatidens kvinnodräkt" (Hägg 1990, Historiska Nyheter 61), she describes it as being of "utmärkt kvalitet". It would have been worn with the oval brooches. The servant would not have had those brooches, of course, and would have tied the loops together instead.

Of course, as with many of Inga Hägg's theories, it is almost impossible to tell whether that's really true. The dress might never have been worn by a second person, the loops simply torn out before using it for caulking, and the traces of the belt... (?)

For your original question, you might want to check the type of seam that was used for the dart (all the seams used in the harbour fragments can be found in Hägg 1984, fig. 102, p. 150) and think about whether it is possible to make such a seam after the braid has been sewn onto the dress.

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