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A Wandering Elf

My original site exploring both Viking Age textiles and clothing and discussing topics relevant to the SCA.

Quick Link to Viking Textiles

New Projects (Right before war....)

7/26/2017

5 Comments

 
Occasionally I realize that I have totally lost my mind.  Clearly this is one of those times. 

Last year I decided I wanted to come up with a super easy, one layer sort of loose garment that I could do in linen that is more period than my typical bog dresses.  (My "bog dress" is a modified version of the typical two-flap style that involves less fabric, less bunching, and some pleats for better drape.  It is plausible, but is "inspired by" rather than based on an actual extant piece.  My instructions are here: http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/blog-my-journey/sca-standards-the-bog-dress) awanderingelf.weebly.com/blog-my-journey/sca-standards-the-bog-dress

I prefer linen at War, but the issue with linen is that its drape does not lend well to garments that have a lot of fabric bunched up at the waist.  Linen has a very beautiful crisp hand, and tends to fall away from the body rather than flow over it.  Linen is also typically a tabby weave.  Tabby also tends to fall away from the body, whereas a twill will better flow.

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Linen tabby dress, see how the hem stands away from me?
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Linen twill dress, the skirt drapes and flows closer to the body.
Both linen and wool are wonderful, as are both twill and tabby.  They, however, have very different looks and are suited to different things.  For me personally the linen tabby does not make me happy with a Huldremose or Zweeloo style bog dress because it is simply too much cloth (that does not flow well) gathered in at the waist.

I recalled awhile ago that I was deciding on what to do with some lovely mid-weight wool, twill plaid, and tested a very hypothetical garment out in that cloth.  The bulk was too much, but just maybe it would work with this mid-weight linen...
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The Garment

PicturePhoto credit to H. Momen, from the article Visions of Dress.


  
In my massive stash of books and articles I have one entitled "Visions of Dress. Recreating Bronze Age Clothing from the Danube Region".  This is by Karina Grömer, Lise Bender Jørgensen and Helga Rösel-Mautendorfer.  I tend to collect articles by certain authors, in this case it was Bender Jørgensen that is responsible for this one being in my stash.  It discusses a fantastic find from the Bronze Age in Austria and what the plausible costume construction for the fantastic (and dangerous, lol) jewelry could have been.

One of the options (Variant 4: Pustopolje type) is a very simple wrapped garment made from a rectangle of cloth.  I have to take a moment here and note that it is expressly stated in the article that "none of the recreated outfits can be considered as 'the truth'".  This is very key, they are all exceptionally hypothetical (and the methodology is laid out in the document itself, which I shall link further down).  It does, however, work amazingly well and is quite beautiful in the linen that I tested!  (There really is not enough to back this, even with this article, to give this garment enough to pass muster as an A&S project, but it certainly works for events like Pennsic, where I want to stay cool and comfy!)
​https://www.academia.edu/10762573/Visions_of_Dress._Recreating_Bronze_Age_Clothing_from_the_Danube_Regionwww.academia.edu/10762573/Visions_of_Dress._Recreating_Bronze_Age_Clothing_from_the_Danube_Region

Below are some tests I did.  This is 2 yards of 5.3oz linen, un cut and unhemmed.  I tried it with and without a belt and both styles are secure.  I can walk, climb stairs, get up and down off the ground and chase cats in it.  For this test I simply used kilt pins.  In reality I will hem the cloth and use my Crafty Celts Belt and Fibula set (which dates several hundred years after this, but I have it and it is stunning).

The only issue I have so far found at all was that the top-front (neckline) tends to ride a little high on me.  That can be easily fixed with a small brooch or fibula in the front that would serve to gather  just a bit of that fabric (pulling it a bit lower).

2018: NOTES FROM THE AFTERMATH - I made and wore one of these several times last year at Pennsic.  In practice, I learned that this garment needs to be a bit shorter than I am showing in the trial images below, to be completely functional.  No longer than ankle length, with slightly shorter being better, allowed this to not bind up around my legs while walking when it is belted (I have a long stride).  I was able to take off my belt and help someone set up a pavilion last year and and despite getting up and down off the ground a number of times, I was never in danger of flashing anyone, as the dress stayed secure and coverage was complete.  

For sizing, I am typically an 8 or a woman's medium.  I use two yards of cloth (before hemming) for this garment.  My recommendation is to start with cloth that is double your bust size, PLUS extra. Wrap the garment and you can tell from there exactly how much you will need, and you can trim off the excess.

Last year I pushed the fibula through the dress fabric itself each time.  This year I might add small hand sewn eyelets to pin through to help preserve the cloth.
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Instructions

I know that I wanted to over complicate this exceptionally simple garment, and was pleased when I figured it out exactly how easy it was.  Below are steps to complete this look yourself.  Note that the fabric requirement will change with size and body type!  
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Bonus image... photobomb felines!
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Paladin's Pantry at Pennsic!

7/21/2017

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PALADIN'S PANTRY RIDES AGAIN!

Dear Gentles, Have you ever found yourself with more to pack at the end of Pennsic then you did when you set out from home, only to find that your vehicle seems to have shrunk? Is your kitchen area full of boxes of cereal, pasta, jars of peanut butter, and jugs of bottled water you can't remember buying?

Never fear! The annual Paladin's Pantry Food Drive is here to help by conveying your camp's extra food and drink to a local food bank. Just drop any unopened foodstuffs or beverages (no alcohol, please) at one of our handy collection points:
Aethelmearc Royal (N04) Next to Pennsic University
Atlantia Royal (N40) Near the Gothic Abbey
Northshield Royal (E02) Across from Soalr Showers
Trimaris Royal (W17) Runestone and Great Middle Highway
BMDL Baronial (N10) Central Serengeti
Barony of Bhakail (N11) Corner of Brewer's and Fletcher House
Sable Maul (N29) Count Jehan's Bounty
Puffin's Rock Inn (N01) Next to Great Hall
Barony of Blackstone Mountain (E04)
Venshavn (E24) Next to Wulfden's Back Door
Clan Blue Feather (E12) Slope of Horde Hill
House Akeru Thunder (E17) Hill Road
The Lusty Wench Tavern (E17) Across from Chalk Man Pub
The Chalk Man Pub (E17) Hill Road and Good Intentions
House Finisterre (B09) Far West Side
House Iron Lance (W13) Base of Runestone Hill
Maison Rive (Merchant Space 23) Across from Cooper's Store
Offices of the Pennsic Independent --Top of Runestone Hill
Herald's Point (Low Road, next to playground)

In addition, this year the program will be collecting used tents, sleeping bags, cots, and rain gear, (especially those in child sizes), which will serve no one in a dumpster, to benefit the homeless. Exercise your charity, lighten your load, and help members of the community that has made us so welcome over the years! Please direct any questions to Lord Alexander of Ayr (301.401.2045) or Master Morien MacBain (304.283.5640).

​Paladin's Pantry: We put the "large" in "largesse"!
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Artisans Playtime at Pennsic

7/19/2017

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If you have recently been to Æthelmearc War Practice, you know that there is an open Artisan's Playtime that goes on in the Great Hall during the event.  This event has areas for different arts (C&I, wood working, fiber, etc.) where you can see arts demonstrated or even try your hand at something new yourself!

This year, Æthelmearc Royal will be hosting a Pennsic Artisans' Playtime!  On Middle Saturday, from 10am-3pm, feel free to stop by and check things out.  Come find your new art!  

Lady Rosamund and I will be there processing wool and doing some other fiber things if that is of interest to you.  Please stop by!

https://www.facebook.com/artisansplaytime/  www.facebook.com/artisansplaytime/

​Please note that Æthelmearc Royal is a good location to remember should you need a place to sit in the shade or a bit or a glass of water.  There is a populace hospitality area just inside!  The Hospitality Staff will be happy to point you to it.

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Pennsic Prep... and other things

7/17/2017

1 Comment

 
I can never just do what I need to do, in any sensible order.  I did, in fact, prep the RV and do some Pennsic Packing this weekend, but I also spent some time trying out indigo dyeing (I need a long blue wool veil) and finished up a Hedeby purse.

The dye I used was actually an indigo tie-dye kit from Dharma.  It has everything you need to set up a vat very quickly and with little chance of error.  As I am only a dabble-dyer, and have never used indigo or woad before, I opted for easy.  I will definitely use this again!  I did three dips with my wool gauze veil, 3 with a small piece of silk habotai, and Lady Rosamund came over and dyed 3 skeins of wool yarn and several scraps of wool cloth and felt.

My one comment is to buy LONG rubber gloves if you dont want blue fingernails!

http://www.dharmatrading.com/kits/starter/sets/indigo-dye-kit.html


Less than 2 weeks till War!  I cannot wait!

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PENNSIC A&S CONSULTATIONS!

7/6/2017

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As part of the A&S display this year there will be an opportunity for consultations!

A & S Consultation Tables
NEW THIS YEAR!


Entrants can voluntarily request feedback based on the higher degree of expectations that happen at more competitive levels.


The focus is on extensive research, historical understanding, and exemplary execution. These are all important for A & S Champions entries, but also for other activities throughout the Society. Even if you never plan to enter A & S competitions, you can use these tables as opportunities for feedback.


Entrants: After you have gone through the registration table, you may sign up at the A & S Consultation Tables for constructive feedback. (This is in addition to your other A & S Display activities and is no way required.)
You will not receive a score and there is nothing to win.

You will have a chance to talk to experienced judges and walk through their thought process as they examine your entry.


We can give you directed feedback and we can also walk you through example judging rubrics. It depends on what help you are requesting.


We will attempt to accommodate as many entries as possible. We will visit you at your table to view your display and talk to you. We can also work with you on scheduling a specific time.


Judges: We also welcome volunteer judges. Want to help? Let us know! It's you who will help make the A & S Consultation Tables successful.


We'd welcome you for the full four hours; two hour shifts would also help. Let us know what you can do and we'll work with you.


Never judged before and want to learn? Let us know. You can be a shadow judge. We'd welcome the company.

We also hope that this will make the judging experience more constructive and more enjoyable.


If you are interested in helping, please contact The Honorable Lady Kataryn Mercer.

http://www.pennsicwar.org/penn46/DEPTS/AANDS/DISPLAY/index.html#consult


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    About Me

    I am mother to a billion cats and am on journey to recreate the past via costume, textiles, culture and food.

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    Blogroll of SCA & Costume Bloggers

    Below is a collection of some of my favorite places online to look for SCA and historic costuming information.

    More Amie Sparrow - 16th Century German Costuming


    Gianetta Veronese - SCA and Costuming Blog

    Grazia Morgano - 16th Century A&S

    Mistress Sahra -Dress From Medieval Turku 

    Hibernaatiopesäke

    Loose Threads: Cathy's Costume Blog

    Mistress Mathilde Bourrette - By My Measure: 14th and 15th Century Costuming

    More than Cod: Exploring Medieval Norway

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