​Diamond twills are one of the textiles highly coveted by Viking Age reenactors today.  However, what is, and what isn’t, a period diamond twill is not as readily understood.  To better explain the difference in the types of diamonds we can buy today, I am going to start with a bit of information on weaving.
 
The most basic weave is called Tabby weave.  It is also sometimes called “canvas weave” or even “linen weave” despite that it could be crafted from any type of fibre.  The description of “linen weave” is wonderfully accurate, because most linens, even today, are of the simplest weave structure.  In this weave, each thread of the weft (the yarn that runs across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge) crosses over one warp (the threads that run the length of the cloth) and then under the next.
 
Tabby is one of the most common weaves in the Viking Age.  For most regions, you really cannot go wrong with tabby in a solid color.
 

​The other popular weave in the Viking Age is a 2/2 twill.  Twill textiles have a weave structure that has a visible diagonal line.  Think of denim and it can help you picture this.
 
In a 2/2 twill, the first weft thread passes over two warps, then under two, then over the next two to the end of the line.  The next row will be offset.  Again, for most regions, you cannot go wrong with a basic twill in a solid color.
 
There are, of course, many other types of weaves in the period, even if they are not as popular as the two mentioned above.  These include 2/1 twill, herringbone twill, cross twill, lozenge and diamond twills.  It is the last two that I want to discuss at this time.
 
We run into a couple of issues with obfuscation between the terms Diamond Twill and Lozenge Twill.  This is partly because there is no one set of naming conventions for weaving, and also partly because people do not readily recognize the difference in the two and misuse the terms.

First, look at the weaving diagrams for three types of this group:

​2/1 “Lozenge or Diamond Twill”, 2/2 “Lozenge Twill”, and “2/2 Diamond Twill” (which I also call “Broken Diamond Twill” to help make the distinction more clear).  Sometimes you will see Lozenge Twill replaced with Birds-Eye or Goose-Eye Twill.  Lise Bender Jørgensen, one of the top experts in early textiles of Northern Europe, typically makes the distinction between Lozenge for unbroken-diamond twill and Diamond for the “broken” variety, for the 2/2 types, but even she refers to the 2/1 pattern as either.  How confusing is that?  She explains further the choices in another volume, but the details are very weaving specific and I am not going to cover them here, especially because these terms can change from writer to writer or weaver to weaver. 

What do I mean by “broken”?  In the Broken Diamond Twills, you can see that the pattern counterchanges, and the diamond in the center is not a solid color.  That shift is what I am calling a “break”.  The Lozenge Twills do not have that, and appear to be one diamond set atop another.
 
To make all of this more confusing, not every Broken Diamond Twill looks exactly the same.  There are slight variations in size and repeat of the patter, but the key is that they all display that distinctive “break” in the pattern.
 
So why is this important?  It is important to understand the difference because in the Viking Age, the Diamond Twills that we see are almost always of the “Broken” variety.  Knowing the difference, and being able to “read” the cloth, allows us to make our best choices when spending money for textiles, or taking the time to weave our own.

​At York, Denmark and in Norway we only see Broken Diamond twills.  At Sweden we see the same, with the exception being Birka, where we see 8 three-shaft Lozenge Twills (Broken Diamond and 2/2 twill are woven with 4 shafts).  8 textiles out of thousands were truly Lozenge Twills rather than Broken-Diamond Twill.​

Even more important, is that all of these examples of Lozenge Twill were of the same type.  These were delicate, almost sheer, and of a very high thread-count (50-60 threads per cm).  Further they were smooth, shiny and no trace of “wooliness”.  They were dyed so dark with woad that they were almost black. (Geijer, Birka iii, p26-27).  There was one more fabric of this quality/color that as well that was also a 3 shaft twill.
 
If you want more weaving-nerdy-info, please see this article by Hrolf Verberg that helps to explain why the 2/2 twills are of the Broken variety.  And if you are curious about percentages of weaves at various sites, you can see my charts HERE.  Some of my handwoven examples are below (the top-right one uses two colors to better show the weave).

​This is a complicated question.  Ideally, if you were in a serious reenactment group, or if you were taking the time to weave the cloth yourself, you absolutely would want to choose the Broken Diamond Twills for your kit if you were representing someone from anywhere other than Birka.  If you are looking at Birka, you would want to look more closely at the graves with that special type of Lozenge Twill and take a closer look at the context, and try to find a very fine cloth that matches that specific type to get the most accurate representation possible.
 
And for anyone else?  I would still recommend that if you are laying out a great deal of money for specialty cloth that you look for the “correct” thing first.  That is not to say that I would not purchase a Lozenge Twill if the price was right or if I really wanted something in linen for Pennsic and I could not find a Broken Diamond Twill.  Also, never pass up a good bargain on wool when you can find it!  And, in the SCA especially, we often make concessions for things like opting for the not-quite-perfect-but-close fabric because it is what we have access to (please note the difference in your documentation if it is for a competition though).  For example, you might really need a dress for an elevation and want to use the red from your heraldry and the only cloth available is Lozenge Twill, well, go for it!  If you already have a garment in Lozenge Twill?  Don’t sweat it!  Wear it with pride.  From any distance it is almost impossible to tell apart!
 

• Saxon textiles were also of the Broken Diamond Twill type
• For the Viking Age look for solid colors when possible, or at least colors that are close together.  Solid Red, Brown or Blue would be stellar, and I would look at something like Dark Brown warp with Light Brown weft as quite decent as well.  I would avoid purchasing a cloth that has drastically different colors in the two systems if I were aiming for a very accurate garment, unless I found a bargain I could not pass up (and even then, I might overdye it at some point).
• Look for SMALL diamonds.  The existing textiles, even where we think they belonged to a cloak, were not large.  Some of the textiles had diamonds that were smaller than a centimeter tall!  I would not buy anything with diamonds over an inch, and even that I would think twice about, especially for a garment like a tunic or aprondress.
• We do have two examples of Broken Diamon Twill linen, both from women’s clothing. (see article HERE).
• Remember, you can never, ever go wrong with plain Tabby or 2/2 Twill in solid colors, EVEN for a very high status persona!

 
Some options for purchasing Broken Diamond Twills are below (I will update this as I get more recommendations):
 
Woolsome: Note that the linens, wool thin diamonds and wool/linen mixes are Lozenge Twills, not Broken Diamond Twills.  The Handwoven Diamonds are Broken Diamond Twill.
https://www.woolsome.shop/
 
Classic Fabrics: This site also carries both types, look very carefully at the weave when selecting.
https://classicfabrics.nl/category/fabrics/wool/?filter_weave=diamond-twill
 
TheHistoricalFabricStore: I _think_ these are all Broken Diamond, but one might want to clarify before ordering. The diamonds are SMALL and these are in solid colors so even if these were lozenge twills, I would be tempted regardless.
https://www.thehistoricalfabricstore.com/diamondtwill
 
Der Stoff Dealer: Sometimes has Broken Diamond Twill
https://www.der-stoffdealer.de/
 
REFERENCES

Bender Jørgensen, Lise.  Northern European Textiles until AD 1000, Aarhus University Press), 1992.
 
Bender Jørgensen, Lise.  Prehistoric Scandinavian Textiles, (Det Kongelige Nordiske oldskriftselskab), 1986.
 
Geijer, Agnes.  Birka III, Die Textilefunde aus Den Grabern.  Uppsala,1938.
 
Hägg, Inga. Textilien und Tracht in Haithabu und Schleswig, Wachholtz Murmann Publishers, 2015.
 
Walton Rogers, P.  Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fiber from 16-22 Coppergate, The Archaeology of York Volume 17: The Small Finds. 1989.
 
Walton Rogers, P.  Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate, The Archaeology of York Volume 17: The Small Finds.  1997.

General SCA and Viking Age articles will still end up on this part of my site.  I am still teaching Viking Age classes at events, and still reading newer research that comes out, but that is not the entirety of what I do at this point.  I am finally taking time to explore areas of interest that I had long before I ever started on Viking Age research.

For early, early period Celtic textiles and dress, see this section:  http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/iron-age-celtic-studies

And for my SCA Forestry work, apothecary and 14th Century English clothing research, see this section:  http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/a-wandering-elf-in-the-woods

SCA Reminders because I have had several conversations over the last few weeks about exactly these things, and they affect they have on people.

Now, I also realize most of the folks here are not gonna be the ones to do this, BUT you might be the one to overhear it and just might be the one that can shift the narrative and make someone else feel more comfortable. Also, this post is NOT the place to drag out horror stories from a decade ago, but I would happy to hear about those times that something inspirational happened, or of moments of exemplary courtesy.

1) There is no starting date for the SCA. Period. Doesn't matter what you thought it was or what someone told you it was 20 years ago (or even yesterday). It is in the rules. There is no starting date. And, in case anyone is really wondering, this rule goes WAY back. Yes, at one point the handbook listed 600CE, but even then the rule still said pre-17th Century. Also, we have had very Early period Laurels for a very, very long time, so clearly, these efforts have been officially recognized for a long time as well.

2) We are not Eurocentric. Yes, at one time we were (or tried to be), but we aren't now. And as with the above, even before the rules were re-worded to be more inclusive, there were still folks being recognized for their spectacular efforts in these areas. There is a whole world of incredible history that can be explored, and we should welcome that as a good thing.

3) Of members we expect basic courtesy towards others and an attempt at pre-17th Century garb. Key word here is "attempt". Someone might be new, or they might be at a different stage in their journey, or they just might be comfortable dressing a certain way. You do not get to define if an attempt is worthy or not unless someone asks you about it. Likewise, courtesy means that you also do not get too negate a conversation about very deep historic interpretations among those who wish to discuss such things.

4) Just because someone is decked out in splendid periodocity doesn't mean that they are looking down with you. That is their work and passion and they have a right to display it and talk about it. You could learn something from them, or they could learn something from you, even if it is not about garb at all. We all have our passions and are similar in our love of sharing the things that inspire us.

5) That item #3 is specifically about GARB. It has nothing to do with the the project someone is sitting and working on at an event. Is someone knitting a day-glow 1960's inspired sweater at an event? Good for them! They are crafting and that is amazing. Guess what? They know it isn't period, and it's not your business to point that out. Let them do them because I guarantee you that that if that sweater that someone is quietly knitting on the sidelines ruins your day, you need help from outside the SCA and should go seek it.

5A) If a kid is wearing a Hogwarts robe or a Disney Princess costume, just step down totally. It is hard to get kids to do anything sometimes and if that makes them happy, then the parents are happy, and, likely, everyone in the vicinity is happy.

6) There are modern things that are necessary for medical reasons... shoes and eyewear are the two most common. Someone might be in a glorious Elizabethan outfit but is wearing sneakers because that is the only way they can stay on their feet all weekend. Your comments are really not needed, and they are very likely already aware of it and feel self-conscious.

7) And while many do not like it, phones are everywhere and will be everywhere. Courtesy demands that we silence them during classes and courts, and if would be kind if we would look at them a bit covertly during those times (unless we are taking a photograph), but this _is_ the world we live in and those phones allow parents to keep track of children, or allow us to in touch with folks offsite. You never know what is going on in someone's life so, please, don't judge the person that frequently is checking their phone. Also, phones are great tools to keep kids quiet sometimes, and as with number 5, that is often in everyone's best interest.

8) There are also people who work very, very hard on the more actual reenactment end of what we do. You do not have to do go that route, but in their own groups or own spaces, they have that right. These folks love to engage with others, teach others and are often great resources to all of us even if we are just dipping our toes in the water rather than diving in the way they have. This would include things like battles at some events that have kits required for a specific time and place. Individuals are working very hard to create a setting to try to portray a specific thing. If you do not have the gear for that, there are other fights for you. And I bet if you opt to watch it, you might be inspired and most likely folks would give you information to work towards participating in the future. Another example is a band that uses only period instruments or that only performs one type of music. If you are not equipped to play with them, you can still enjoy their work and learn from them. Yet another example would be Enchanted Ground at Pennsic, these folks welcome you into their home and have a set of rules for behavior when you enter (no modernity). You can walk in and join in and be welcomed, or you can choose to do something else with your time. There are always options of other activities if you do not care for the thing before you.

9) The most basic premise is that we should all be having fun. Try to help others with their own brand of fun when possible, and share yours with those who express interest. Volunteer to work on some facet of an event if possible, as burn-out among the regulars is real. If you see someone looking lost, maybe you can guide them to something they would like or you just might be the person who makes them feel included.

Greetings Pennsic attendees, 

Now for some not-good news: 
We’ve received confirmation that the showers on  block X-02, commonly known as the Solar Showers, will not be available this year.  

The next closest showers for many  blocks are located next to the laundry facilities Next to the Information point.  Please prepare for this change to the Pennsic infrastructure.

Hope you’re staying safe, and hydrated!



Be prepared.  I know a lot of folks rely on those showers.  This also means the other showers on site will be more crowded.

​

They have announced the COVIDSafe policies for Pennsic.  Please read and be prepared if you plan to attend because they will be denying admittance to those who do not have the necessary items with them at registration.  Also be prepared to carry a mask with you.  Teachers and merchants are within their rights to require people in their classes or booths to put on a mask.

PENNSIC COVID POLICY
Pennsic 49 Covid policy

Covid policies of the SCA and Kingdom of Aethelmearc apply to Pennsic and will therefore require some changes from what you’ve seen in the past. Some of these may or may not impact you and some of these are critical for everyone attending to know.

EVERYONE ATTENDING MUST SHOW PROOF OF VACCINATION OR A NEGATIVE TEST FROM A MEDICAL FACILITY WITHIN 72 HOURS OF TROLLING IN.

Kingdom of Aethelmearc Covid policy
https://tinyurl.com/AEShortSummary

It’s critical to understand the details here as we really don’t want to turn anyone away at troll because someone didn’t understand what they needed to get in the gate. This applies to anyone 5 years or older so it includes your kids as well. This only applies to anyone trolling into the event for the first time. Once you’ve received your medallion you can leave and enter the site as normal.
A physical copy of your vaccination card or a photo of it are both acceptable.

You will need a form of ID as usual
If you bring documentation of a negative test remember that it has to be from a medical facility and it has to be within 72 hours of when you arrive at the troll desk so please plan your timing accordingly as sometimes lines can be as long on the weekends. Home test results are not acceptable.

There are no exceptions so if you don’t have what you need you will not be allowed into the event.
Aethelmearc requires masking indoors, but due to the large openings of our facilities places like the Great Hall, and tent spaces are considered outdoor spaces. The upper level of the cooper showerhouse next to the Cooper Store will be closed and locked for Pennsic 49. The upper bathrooms will still be accessible from the deck.

Camps, individual classes, and merchant spaces may set their own rules for requiring masks in their space so we recommend all attendees have a mask available and respect the rules for their space. The First Aid pavilion will be treated like a medical facility and masks will be required if you are admitted in to see doctors or EMTs.

The event will not be providing water containers. Attendees are requested to bring their own water containers and we will have filtered water available at various locations around the site. That includes the battlefield and public service areas.
As with things like sunscreen and bugspray, attendees should plan to provide their own masks and hand sanitizer.

Specific questions on implementation of the Covid policy at Pennsic can be directed to the email below and I will endeavor to answer questions promptly and publish updated information if I get additional information.

Baron Manuel de la Rosa y Botella de Mirguela
Deputy Mayor of Event Safety
dmwatch@pennsicwar.org

Monica Gaudio
Kingdom Seneschal
Æthelmearc
Illadore de Bedegrayne
Pronouns: She/Her
​
Æ Covid Policy -https://tinyurl.com/AEShortSummary

I feel this is very relevant to share here. I have repeatedly ranted on my own wall on Facebook more than once about this weird transition about "Viking" things into something that is only barely related to history at all, just because we, as modern people, want to craft a mythology with which we can identify.

This article on Hurstwic largely focuses on combat, but there is much relevant to any period for reenactment and research. If you choose not to read it, I will leave you with what I consider the two most valuable parts of the piece.  You can read it by clicking HERE. 

The first is at the beginning and states, "We are not vikings." Fact. You aren't, and I am not. This is a group of people that are long gone. We can learn about them, study them, event try to reenact parts of their lives, but we are, in fact, not actual Vikings.  Nothing is ever going to change that.

And the second, and most important, is near the end... "Zeitgeist / Wishful thinking". Actually, please go read this. This specifically addresses the morphing of Vikings into some modern legend that largely strips away the reality.  

Is it fine for fantasy or a LARP? Are elements of this costuming even fine for the SCA? Yup, please, come sit by my fire at an event and have a drink and we can all have a good time together.  

The problem arises when someone tries to force the past to suit some sort of modern ideal that they want fulfilled. This applies to not just fighting but clothing, gender roles, spirituality or anything else. Research is complex, nuanced and never ending.  Trying to shift history to meet our own expectations is a very dangerous and slippery slope.  This is the type of thing from which terrible memes are made (and these memes often eventually get taken as utter truth... whether it is about the role of Norse women in history or ones about Turkish coffee houses in the 16th century or really extra stupid ones about how Savannah cats weigh 40lbs, these things are typically either laden with lies or just an all-out lie).

At some point, doing this becomes a lie, a rewriting of history to suit a personal fantasy. Be honest in your own goals and approach (and yes, "I like this specific look because it is fun!" is totally valid in the SCA, and there is no need to try to justify things with woulda/coulda/shouldas).  If you enjoy studying history, dig deeper, and learn more.  If you just want to play dress up (something that is totally valid), be honest in that that is your desire.

I have started blogging again!  I am still in a phase where I am "making" more than I am researching, but I have started posting about my SCA Forestry projects.  

Last year, I learned that Æthelmearc was starting a Forestry Guild and a friend came out and prowled around the woods with me in garb.  It sounded fun, but at the time, most of what I saw folks dowing was more akin to building survival skills than anything else and 15 mile hikes at the buttcrack of dawn where you have to build your own shelter to keep from freezing for the night are just not my speed.  Once I started to learn more about it though, there are so many paths you can take!  Period fishing, herblore, foraging, plants and animals, and more.  Oh, yeah, and building out a period kit is actually an official part of it as well!

So yeah, that got me thinking more about it and suddenly I am knee-deep in a men's 14th Century kit and eating weeds from my back yard.

If you are interested in following along on my "wilderness" adventures, I started a sub-blog that can be found HERE. 

This article is the follow-up to my opinion piece HERE. 

This article is about Garb, and my personal perspective on it.  I ask that anyone who chooses to comment please read the whole thing first and understand that all comments must be positive in nature (I will delete anything else).  We have all heard about misdeeds of the past, and it serves no purpose here to retell these things.  Instead, I want a conversation about bringing more positivity and understanding to the game, about how to be more welcoming into our Society. There were be additional parts to this article coming soon.
 
I think I made my position on garb pretty clear in the first write-up in this series, I want to offer the reminder that we can be our own worst enemies at times.  I have spent more than one late night crying before an event because something I felt I “had” to have ready either wasn’t going to be finished or just plain wasn’t working out at all.  I think most SCA artisans do this at some point or another and we need to remember that none of this is actually necessary.
 
Would it be nice to show off the new dress?  Yes!  Should anyone else care if it is not ready?  Oh heck no.  Yet we put this pressure on ourselves and I find that newcomers, who might not even have been to an event before also feel that pressure to have the “right” outfit before they even know what “right” is.
 
Do you thrive under pressure and feel joy in wrangling that dress through the sewing machine at 3am?  Please, do so if you love it.  Do you really just _want_ more than anything to own that classic princess dress of your dreams?  Please then, make it!  But you are not require to put in these hours to please anyone else.

Other things to keep in mind when taking the dive:

• It is not necessary to make a new outfit for each event.  It is also not necessary to match the theme of the event if there is one.  I made that mistake for years and really got burnt out over it.
• Historically, most people had very few garments compared to today.  That means it is totally period to have a very small wardrobe!!! I even have a friend who goes to Pennsic (for a week or more) with only a couple of gowns and I think three underdresses is what she told me.  She washes out the underdresses after wearing them and so she always has something clean to wear.  This is a far more accurate way of doing it than my own rather expansive garb closet, lol.  Some people prefer to have enough garb to never do laundry at a long event, but this is still good to keep in mind that one can absolutely take this approach if needed.
• Don’t let the idea of perfection get in the way of actually coming out to play.  Your garb does not need to be perfect to come to an event.  This especially applies to relative newcomers, but still is good to keep in mind for long time players as well.  I would rather see someone show up in a tunic they just made tossed on over sweatpants because they did not have time to get the pants done, than to have them opt out totally due to lack of ‘period’ pants.
• You are not in a competition with anyone else.  Folks are not judging your garb by comparing it to the person next to you.  Even if you are entering a competition, you are likely being judged against a rubric (a set of criteria) and then whoever scores highest on that will win, rather than just comparing two entries to each other.
• We absolutely allow for accommodations.  Do you need to wear glasses at all times?  Do you have to wear sun glasses if the sun is bright?  Do you need to wear sneakers (or in my case, Birkenstocks) to prevent damage to your feet?  Do you not handle the heat well and find that short sleeves, even if not period for your persona, make Pennsic more tolerable?  Cannot afford wool or linen, cotton fabric is totally fine.  All of these things are more than reasonable choices and they should never be questioned. 
• Kids always get a pass.  Is your kid sensitive to certain fabrics?  Then don’t push linen or wool on them, a loose cotton tunic and PJ pants might be the way to go!  Does your little princess prefer to be a Disney princess?  Totally fine as long as they are happy.  The entire event is happier if the kids are happier so definitely do not fret kid garb!

 
Now let’s talk a bit about how to get garbed up. 
 
Sewing – This is the obvious one.  Learning to sew and taking time to make your own clothing is the most common approach.  The problem with this is that many people don’t like to sew, and they should not be pushed into doing something they really do not enjoy.  Some people know how and even enjoy it, but just do not have time for whatever reason.  Some people are happy to sew simple things, but not comfortable tackling bigger projects.  (For example, I don’t enjoy sewing, but will do so for some things, I do hate tailoring and pattern making with a passion though and go out of my way to avoid it.)  Others might want to learn, but have been unable to find a teacher and the pandemic has made SCA sewing gatherings much more difficult. So sewing your own garb is an option, and I will address some very simple options for that in the last part of these articles.  I will recommend that if you are new that you do opt for simple over complex for your first event.  One will see so many types of garb at an event that it can help overcome some uncertainty about what to make.
 
Gold Key – Is there are group local to you?  (https://www.sca.org/about/kingdoms/)  Many groups have what they call Gold Key Garb.  This is loaner gear that is set aside to help newcomers enjoy their first event with less pressure.  Some places have a well-stocked closet, others might have a simple cloak or tabard that one can wear and a mug to borrow to explore the event while you figure out what you might want to make or buy for your next one.  Talking to the local Chatelaine (an officer who can help with newcomer questions) can let you find out if they have loaner gear (and can often be helpful in other ways as well, these folks love to be helpful).
 
Thrifting – Some people love to haunt thrift shops, Goodwill, and yard sales.  Some items can be taken apart and have the fabric repurposed for SCA use.  A large men’s wool sport coat can have the fabric salvaged for a woman’s bodice, hats or other items.  Curtains or bedding offer large lengths of fabric that could become any number of garb items with some sewing skill.  Other things can be purchased and used as-is, because they meet the “attempt” that is required.  Long, full skirts, particularly in solid colors, can make a great base wardrobe item.  Modern tunics in woven fabrics (rather than knit like t-shirt fabric) might work over a long skirt or cotton PJ pants as suitable first garb.  Shawls can become cloaks, as can heavy wool blankets.  I know people who have found long, loose summer dresses in 100% linen at Goodwill.  Something like that can be a great item to have in the garb closet and you can accessorize it with a belt or sash and a veil and look fantastic at an event while learning more about different garb types to decide what you might like to pursue.
 
I think at this time I need to talk briefly about fibre types and how they might affect your comfort levels.  Linen is going to typically be your coolest fabric in hot weather due to the way it wicks sweat and draws it away from the body to evaporate.  One of the real pluses to linen is that it dries rapidly, which means you can wash out linen garments at Pennsic and hang in the sun during the afternoon and they will almost assuredly be dry by nightfall.  Linen-cotton blend is also a good call for hot weather.  Many people also find cotton comfortable enough (particularly very light weight gauzy cottons).  Wool is fantastic for keeping you both warm and dry, and very, very light weight wools can even be comfortable in the summer.  Rayon is a cellulose based fibre as well, but it is heavily processed and wrinkles very easily, but many applications of that have a nice drape that people enjoy.  It also can shrink drastically, but it can also be comfortable in hot weather for many individuals.  Synthetics like acetate or polyester typically do not breath well at all, but the nice patterns we sometimes find on home goods still make up into lovely garb (it just might not be the best choice for hot and humid events like Pennsic).  Synthetics typically will not do well around fire.  A pretty chiffon skirt might look lovely for dancing, but you will not want to wear it near a fire because one spark could cause it to either melt to you or go up in flames.  Learning about different weaves and fibre types can help you better search out thrifted items to expand your wardrobe.
 
SCA/LARP Vendors – Of course there are vendors that cater specifically to our hobby and I love to see folks supporting them as much as possible.  There are dozens of them out there, and I am only going to list a couple here because I have personally seen their wares and because they offer items at a low price point (such as basic tunics in linen for under $100).  There are artisan vendors that can make pretty much anything you would like to wear if one is willing to pay for it.


Neverland Designs - http://www.neverlandgarb.flyingcart.com/
This company offers a number of simple designs in linen or cotton that tend to be durable.  You can layer a shorter linen tunic over a longer one for a great look.  They have aprondresses as well. A long linen gown, a shorter flared linen tunic (listen under men’s on their site) and an aprondress could provide a versatile wardrobe.  Either dress could be worn under the aprondress, or alone, or both gowns could be worn layered together.  They also have decently priced chemises for those who like to wear bodices and skirts.
 
Linen Garb - https://www.linengarb.com/
This company is also fantastic for producing basic garments that have real lasting power.  They are currently trying to find a new source for linen, but I hope to see them start vending at events again soon.  They produce very nice tunics, pants and dresses and also have some fantastically embroidered specialty items as well.
 
Bad Ass Garb - https://badass-garb.myshopify.com/
I personally have not handled the clothing from this shop but know several folks who swear by it.  They do offer 100% linen tunics for men at reasonable prices on their site and the photos also show a variety of women’s wear.
 
Hooded Hare - https://thehoodedhare.com/
This company makes tunics, dresses and aprondresses in 100% linen that one can use for many years.  The decorated tunics are a somewhat fantasy interpretation, but they are a staple for many SCA wardrobes.  They are more pricey due to the work that goes into them but look and wear well.  They do offer simpler undertunics that fall under $100 for a 100% linen garment as well.

Grimfrost - https://grimfrost.com/ (Updated 4/1/22) - I was aware of this vendor but did not know anyone who has specifically purchased clothing there until last night so I am now adding them.  I have long known that the clothing was not suitable for serious reenactment, but based on the review last night the garments sound sturdy and they offer things like linen gowns for $75 and tunics for $69 which is not bad at all.  Their aprondresses with the side slits are a modern interpretation rather than historic, but they would still be more than suitable for SCA purposes if accuracy is not the goal.  
 
There are many additional SCA and LARP vendors online, but I have not personally been able to vet their wares, so will not go into detail about them here.  I would LOVE, however, if those who have purchased from other outlets would chime in in the comments with other options for affordable garb that folks can use to get started.  I will note that if you can afford an entire outfit to start, that Historic Enterprises (https://historicenterprises.com/) offers whole outfits and even does custom sizing.
 
Easy to Purchase/Inexpensive Mundane Crossovers – Another way to get quick and low priced garb is to search online for vendors that sell basic garments in natural fibres that can be repurposed to SCA use.  There are a few things to watch out for when selecting vendors:

• Don’t buy from Wish.  Just please don’t.  There are many unreputable vendors there who sell items that lie about metal or fibre content, and many that are just scams outright.  It is not worth the problems you can get by purchasing from this source.  See my rant about Wish here if you like.
• Vet other sources carefully.  There are plenty of vendors on Amazon that are overseas and it can take weeks to get your items, or where they are not returnable at all, or that the sizing is based on sizing charts in China and not what you might be used to in the US.  Read reviews carefully and also ask friends or SCA groups online if they have used these vendors.  If something seems too good to be true, it likely is.
• Facebook hosts a ton of scam ads.  Unless you know the company is legitimate, just avoid these completely. 

 
I personally have found a ton of wonderful linen or wool scarves/shawls on Amazon or Etsy that made for fantastic veils for SCA use (you can search this blog for headcoverings or scarf to see some I have reviewed in the past).  There is a brand named FLAX that sells very basic linen dresses, that while not cheap would make lovely additions to an SCA wardrobe (and occasionally these show up in thrift shops).  Garments like this can also serve two purposes as both SCA and modern apparel.

Things like woven (not knit t-shirt) PJ pants in solids or sometimes plaids are a great way to cheaply purchase pants to extend a wardrobe.  No one will see the waist band when a tunic is worn over them.  And if you already have solid ones that are knit fabric in your drawer, they will be passable for a first event as well.  Likewise, a simple pair of modern summer linen pants will be comfortable and passable when under a tunic.
 
I recently saw a conversation on Facebook about beginner garb and someone linked a shop called AnySize on Amazon that has cotton linen blend dresses at reasonable prices.  I decided to get one to check it out for myself and it arrived this week.

I opted for THIS ONE with ¾ sleeves, despite that that is not the most period of choices for many times and places.  I want the dress for working in camp at Pennsic and for working outside in the summer and that is just more practical for me for that purpose (and it is totally fine by SCA standards as well).  It washed and dried well (despite saying Dry Clean Only) and did not seem to shrink too much as the fit felt pretty similar before and after washing.  The fabric has a texture to it, almost like a very heavy gauze (or Deva cloth, for the local folks who might remember that stuff).  The weight is not bad for hot weather, I don’t think, but I have not been able to test it yet given that it has been snowing on and off here for the last few days.  It is not as smooth as a good quality 100% linen (though not scratchy at all), and it might further soften with wear and additional washing.  For me it will still be perfectly comfortable.  Long sleeve version is HERE (they have more than one long sleeve style so looking at their storefront can help you find those).
 
Regarding sizing - I ordered the Medium and it has almost exactly the bust size that the underdresses I make myself have (39-40” in circumference is what I usually make, my bust measurement is 34”).  I would say these run pretty true to size.  I am 5’6” so it is mid-calf on me, which is fine for me for hot weather or a work dress or for layering.  Some folks prefer to wear shorter garments regardless of any other factors (when I started I made a bunch of Ren bodices and skirts and those skirts were never longer than mid-calf on me, and I usually wore Docs for shoes and the world did not end over it).
 
The dresses also come in long and short sleeve versions.  These are essentially T-tunics and could serve well for a first dress or for bulking up a wardrobe for Pennsic.  In addition to having the option of wearing it on its own, I dressed up my dummy to show some additional options.  While I used this Amazon dress in my photos here, these would work with any basic garment (and serve to show why anyone could make use of a few simple tunics/dresses whether from Amazon, Neverland, or elsewhere) as part of their wardrobe.  While browsing Amazon I saw a number of vendors selling men's simple caftans in linen-cotton blend (my partner purchased one and I will review later when it arrives) and even cotton-linen drawstring men's pants.  If ordering something from a new source, I do recommend ordering a single item first and checking quality before stocking up.  lol

I also purchased another linen scarf (which can be found at Amazon HERE) that can be seen in these photos.  This one would make a great head wrap, veil or sash.  It comes in other colors as well, but note that some colors are cotton and others are linen.

This is where I need to crowd source.  Do you have basic garments that are reasonably priced (under $100) that you use for events that you love?  Please leave a review and a link in the comments so that others can see what their options are!

This is the basic AnySize dress that I chose.  If I was not trying to use it for gardening as well, I might have chosen the long sleeve version instead to test out.  It is comfortable and fits well enough, even if a little short.  This fabric does wrinkle though, but it survived washing and drying well.

This is a very common SCA look.  It is not pretending to be any specific time and place, but rather is a serviceable, comfortable attempt at a medieval look.  In the photo I have the AnySize dress over a plain linen skirt, and am wearing it with a ring belt (something far more common in the SCA than in history, but it absolutely works).  The last installment of this article will have some instructions for a basic skirt.

This is what I love to call an Ugly Skirt.  I love them.  This is actually a very period item for Bronze Age and Early Iron Age in Northern Europe (and possibly Central Europe as well).  The skirt is a rectangle of cloth sewn up one side and the top and bottom edges are hemmed.  I have a wool woven belt that holds the skirt up.  (A wool belt is key here as you need the grip to keep the skirt from slipping out.). This is an instance where the 3/4 sleeves are perfectly period, so this look works pretty well over all.  You can typical find basic tablet or inkle woven wool belts at events for sale or on sites like Etsy.

Here I have the dress under a long-ish aprondress for a Viking look.  The brooches here are reproduction ones, but you can find reasonably priced ones at Raymond's Quiet Press.

This aprondress is a wrap style.  Apron dresses that had some sort of opening to them used to be considered likely, but those theories have fallen out of favor with academics.  Despite that, some people like them still because they like the versatility in sizing that they get from the garment.  I personally do not prefer them because they do not sit well with big, heavy brooches without a belt but they still look nice.

Many vendors sell aprondresses now, and there are a variety of styles to choose from.  Some are more period than others, so whatever direction you opt to go with this garment is up to you.  Perfection is not required!  And if you sew, there are some very easy to make styles out there.  The Second Breakfast Dress that I talk about HERE is one of the simplest.

I love a peplos!  This garment can serve for early Celtic, early Saxon, Greek, Roman, and Migration period in Northern Europe. Depending on time and location, it can be worn over a sleeved underdress, a sleeveless rectangular tunic, or on its own in hot weather.  

For Fibula here I have some of the simplest ones that ThorThor sells.  His work is very good quality and very, very well priced.  It never hurts to have an extra set of pins or two around!

This, honestly, is a look I never stop loving in the SCA.  Here I have the Amazon dress over one of the underdresses that I usually wear with an aprondress or under a gown.  I like the layers and the drape.  Adding a veil, purse of some sort and a brooch at the neck of the underdress (or a simple bead necklace) and make this look "complete" with little effort.

I always wear a headcovering of some sort at events, and this linen scarf from Amazon makes a beautiful veil or head wrap and would work with any of the garments I showed in photos here.

A few final comments to wrap this up.  This dress would also work over PJ pants or poofy pants.  I know lots of folks who like to wear pants for events where they will be doing a lot of walking, and this still looks lovely with pants and a belt or sash.  While these photos really focus on women's wear, many men like long tunics they can wear on their own or over shorts (or pants), for basic garb.  Having a few basic tunics that you can wear in a variety of ways can really help expand a wardrobe.

Again, please feel free to leave your own suggestions for simple garb and reviews of items you have bought in the comments.  Please keep all comments positive (though I will allow negative reviews) and have fun!

This article is about Garb, and my personal perspective on it.  I ask that anyone who chooses to comment please read the whole thing first and understand that all comments must be positive in nature (I will delete anything else).  We have all heard about misdeeds of the past, and it serves no purpose here to retell these things.  Instead, I want a conversation about bringing more positivity and understanding to the game, about how to be more welcoming into our Society. There were be additional parts to this article coming soon.
 
So to discuss Garb, I want to first note what our governing documents say about it:

• Members dress in pre-17th century clothing styles worn all over the world and participate in activities based on the civil and martial skills of the period.
• Requirements for Participants at Society Events - Anyone may attend Society events provided they wear an attempt at pre-17th century clothing, conform to the provisions in Corpora, and comply with any other requirements (including but not limited to site fees or waivers) which may be imposed. At business meetings and informal classes, the requirement to wear pre-17th century dress may be waived. All participants are expected to behave in an appropriate and respectful manner.

This is what is required to participate in events.  Nowhere here does it say that the clothing need to conform to any set of standards.  Some other groups have guidebooks on the minimum requirements for participation, but we do not. These other groups actually recreate specific periods of history in a manner that is very much in the public-eye.  We are not those groups.

I have said this before, and will say it again, we have a minimum requirement for entry and that is actually a really, really good thing.  This allows us to show up at an event and test the waters before really making a commitment.  This allows us to wear something simple, if we choose, while trying to decide what it is that we really want to dive into.  This also allows those who really don’t much care about garb to show up in the basics and pursue their other passions, whether it is archery, or cooking, or illumination, without having to invest too deeply (in time or money) into a field that holds little interest for them. 
 
The exception here is those who are wanting to be considered for a Peerage.  There is an additional bullet under the General Requirements for Patent of Arms that reads, “They shall have demonstrated support for the aims and ideals of the Society by being as authentic in dress, equipment and behavior as is within their power.”  This is an entirely different situation than any I will discuss here, as I am mostly talking about newcomers, those in the Society who are still trying to figure out what they like, those who have interests that do not include garb at all, and casual players who want to be involved but with little commitment.
 
So let’s start with an example that I have used online before.  One year at Pennsic I was visiting Merchant Row (probably for the 20th time that day).  I love to browse the shops and chat with merchants and just really soak up the atmosphere there.  In one of the leather worker’s shops I saw a young man, adult but barely so (if he was old enough to drink it was just barely).  He was wearing dark sweatpants, an oversized t-shirt, that was bloused over a modern belt, and he had a cloak of some sort that might previously have been a curtain or sheer or something. 

This young man was excited to be there.  You can feel the joy of Pennsic rolling off of him.  He was in the process of buying a standard SCA-style belt pouch.  Based on the animated conversation the young man was having with the merchant, I am guessing it was probably his first purchased piece of garb and I was happy for him.  I was happy that he was there.  I was delighted that he was enthusiastic about his new purchase and the game he being drawn into.

THIS is the person I want to come to events, and to keep coming back to events.  It did not matter at all that his costume was comprised of modern bits, what mattered was that he made an attempt and showed up and was happily engaging in what it is that we do.  This meets the definition of “an attempt at pre-17th Century clothing” that is the base requirement for participation as far as I am concerned.

The fact is, he might have been anxious about his clothing choices before showing up at the event (many people are).  He might have become even more anxious about it once he saw some of the masterworks of art that surrounded him.  Some people are very unsure about what events are like, if their gear is “good enough” to even show up, or if they will fit in at all.  But he was still there making the best effort he could, and hopefully he is still around. 

Ultimately, the fact remains that this young man did not need my advice or help in any way.  He did not need me to tell him how to make a tunic or what he could do to improve his garb.  If he wanted assistance, there were plenty of folks to ask, or classes to take (it was Pennsic after all).  If he struck up a conversation with me about garb, that would open a doorway, but until then, there was nothing for me to do beyond smile at him let him finish his transaction with the merchant.

There are folks who come to an event because they heard about it online and really do not know what to expect.  They might show up in a cosplay creation, or something far more fantasy than medieval, or they might just be making do with a bedsheet toga because it was all they could manage on short notice.  Make them feel welcome.  Let them see what it is that we do and hopefully they have enough fun that they stick around and can learn our ways.  We are increasingly seeing more and more crossover with other genres of playing dress-up, and we need to be welcome them as the newcomers that they are if we want them to keep coming back and bringing their friends.  Yes, modern faeriefest attire is not part of what we do, but if we treat these folks kindly, they will stick around and learn what our hobby is all about and hopefully will dive in.  (Yes, the first SCA event did, in fact, have fantasy as part of it, but the group has evolved a great deal since then and we have formal mission statements, a historic focus, and even rules about certain things.  If anyone has an issue with that, that should be addressed to the BoD, and not screamed on public forums, or my blog either, because that serves no point at this time.)
 
For some people, glorious garb is part of what they bring to the game.  It really does help provide atmosphere in the way that pretty back drops or an elegantly dressed feast table does.  For others, what they bring to events is their service, or their prowess on the field, their laughter as they listen to a story while we feast.  Everyone chooses how they participate and what they will bring to the table at events, and I think we all need to respect that our choices in what to offer might differ than another’s and, yes, we are all most definitely welcome here.
 
So, this is where I stand, and yes, it is a hill on which I will die.  And while I don’t usually sling around an SCA title in conversations, I will do it here.  I am a Laurel whose focus is on clothing and textiles and material culture, and no, I am absolutely not judging anyone in their choices.  Most of the Laurel’s out there feel similarly, likewise with others who passionately work towards authenticity in dress as much as their ability (and wallet) will allow.  Everyone starts somewhere and follows their own path and own timeline and own passions.  We all need to embrace that idea a little bit harder and keep an open mind (and a closed-mouth if need be) when it comes to how others choose to participate.  When do we need to speak up?  When we need to encourage others, and to combat the misinformation that exists (did you know that many of the Ren Faire folks are afraid to try an SCA event because they heard that you have to have authentic clothes?).

And yes, this article is only Part 1.  Part 2 can be found HERE and 3 will follow soon, and hopefully it will help those who need to pull together easy garb for a first event, or perhaps it can even help experienced players to bulk up the wardrobe for events like Pennsic.

One thing I love about the SCA is that it is full of communities of all sorts.  I think very few of us only fit in in one spot, but rather, have a wealth of “micro communities” within the Society that have different roles in our lives at different times.
 
I fall into the community of my household, Shire and Kingdom.  I have tangential households that I do not belong to but I know that will always welcome me.  Likewise there are other regional groups in which lived in the past (or have never lived, lol), where I know many people and feel “at home” with them.  I belong to an incredible group that is headed by my Laurel that includes her apprentices, as well as those of us who have been elevated and our apprentices and students.
 
There are also groups that have focuses on certain areas or topics.  Things like guilds fall under this, where there might be experienced folks helping newer people better their skills with a certain craft (such as a spinning guild or cooking guild).  We also have people who flock to the fighting field or the archery range and participate heavily in those communities at events.  I will migrate to costumers, weavers, spinners at events, as well as those who are dressed in early period clothing, because we all share a common interest.
 
e-SCA, with all of its imperfections, is also full of communities.  I will be honest that I largely find the bigger, more general Facebook groups, to have more than their share lurking trolls and malcontents that are just there to stir up drama.  Over time, I find less and less value in these avenues (though can still be amazing resources for newcomers looking for advice on how to get started with various things).  Where online communities really shine for the SCA is the niche groups. 
 
I belong to a number of Facebook groups for Viking clothing and material culture, bead making, weaving, and other interests that closely match mine.  Many of these are not SCA specific, but I think that is a good thing as we can sometimes get too easily caught up in our own ideas that get circulated around the SCA and it is good to see what discoveries other reenactors have made.  I even belong to some groups, like one for Elizabethan Clothing, even though I will never make an Elizabethan dress, just because the group is well managed and I enjoy seeing the content that comes through my feed on Facebook.
 
I have also seen groups that get some occasional activity, but there are days between posts (or weeks), and in a couple of cases the group admin said they wanted to shut the group down because of lack of activity.  People often do not realize you have to “grow” a group, and feeding and nurturing it is part of that.  Rarely will you be able to start up a group and have it take off and flourish without at least some work.

If you are considering starting a new group, consider first whether there is a need for it.  I started my Viking groups on Facebook because one of the popular groups had a few nasty people in it that the mods rarely did anything about, and the other rocked back and forth between two wishy-washy and too strict for my tastes.  The subject matter is wildly popular right now, so there was definitely “room” online for another in this field.
 
It is also a good idea to frame out the purpose of the group from the start.  There are groups for Viking clothing and groups for weapons and other gear.  Many of those interested in textiles and sewing techniques do not want to drown in miles of posts about sword types, so the division makes perfect sense.  Do understand that the narrower the subject matter, the fewer people will likely find it suits their interest (and that is really ok, quality engagement with like-minded individuals is far better than trying to collect overall audience numbers).
 
Consider also if you know enough about the topic yourself to provide assistance for others if they need it (or do you at least know where or to whom to point them).  A bunch of unanswered questions day-after-day will cause the group to falter.  You do not need to be an expert, and it is totally ok to start a group with the intent of learning about a topic _with_ others, just make that clear that that is the purpose of the outlet. 
 
Hopefully you know several others who either share your field of interest that you can invite to the group from the start.  If you do, strike up a conversation and invite them to share their work, research or expertise there.  If you do not personally know anyone, seek out those that you see in related forums and invite them to participate.  Not everyone will have time to join every group invite they get, but it never hurts to have that conversation.  You do not want the group to become an echo chamber of your own ideas.  We can best learn by sharing our ideas, getting feedback, and listening to the views of others.
 
I would also recommend that in addition to being clear about defining your group parameters (historic time and place, culture, craft, etc.), that you develop a set of clear rules for group behavior.  One of my groups is very clear that if you post a photo of your work that it is open for commentary (the purpose of the group is not to blindly say “oooo pretty shiny thing”, there are other outlets for a stream of constant feedback of that sort).  It is also clear in the rules that if you give feedback it must be kind and constructive.  If someone questions your comments, you better be prepared to back it up with a source (and “I read it somewhere” is not a source).
 
Finally, be prepared to feed content into your own group.  This is where the earlier examples lapsed before they complained about their groups failing.  This also helps to illustrate the type of content you hope others will share there.

Group members might not have time (or confidence in some cases) to contribute original posts, but love to read posts or look at pictures.  This is especially useful in niche groups for things that are less commonly studied.  This is the type of thing that can inspire someone with a mild interest in your field to dive in completely.  There is a wealth of things that can be shared such as artifact photos, amazing recreations, links to academic articles, lectures or publications, the list is really as endless as the internet is.

And that last actually leads me to another thought I want to share.  For a couple of years I saw one person complaining over and over online that there wasn’t a Laurel in their Kingdom to talk to about their specific area of interest.  There actually were a few, and there were also loads of other non-Laurels with excellent work or research in that specific field as well (plus many more with over-lapping fields), but this person was so hung up on their desire to have a direct-dial connection to a Peer that they were missing opportunity to try to BUILD a community of like-minded individuals.  As artisans and researchers, networking is very, very important.  Our work does not exist in a vacuum and you never know who can help you fill in pieces of your interest’s specific puzzles.  Building framework for a specific community is a great way to do this.  It can generate more interest in your area, which creates (eventually) more subject matter experts, and the result is that we can all exponentially grow from those connections.  It also better rounds out the knowledge base in an area.  The more people involved also mean that there will eventually be more classes on topics and hopefully judges better equipped to handle entries from this field in competitions.  (Laurel hint here – being able to connect people with like interests is actually part of the job as I see it.  As you grow as an artisan or researcher, you meet people in your field, but also those in tangential fields.  You learn who does what in that way and then when someone comes to you with questions you cannot answer, you know exactly where to send them.)
 
My final comment here is one of thanks to those who, over the years, have helped groups online succeed, both the groups I run and those in which I love to participate.  Those who answer question, provide content, who call in the admins when trolls go wild, every one of those people contribute to the overall success of an online community and I absolutely appreciate their work and inspiration.