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Viking Bead Research: Køstrup

2/12/2019

5 Comments

 
 htLocation: Denmark, modern day Fyn
Date: 9th/10th Century
Type of Find: Burial
Date of Excavation: 1980-1981
Context: Beads were found in neck area, oval brooches (JP51a) were present
Beads: 8 beads; 2 rock crystal and 6 glass

Grave Køstrup ACQ is perhaps most famous for its pleated aprondress.  Matthew Delvaux dates the grave to the mid-9th century based on the beads, Charlotta Lindbloom dates the grave to the 10th century.  Other grave goods include fragments of the pleated dress, a narrow wool brocaded tablet woven band, beads, an iron knife and key and a casket.  

Fairly recent excavation and reliable diagrams make this a good example of what a woman's necklace of the period might have looked like.  She had some wealth, and Delvaux suggests that her grave goods reflect a position of authority, even though she might not have had the wealth of someone in a more central location.  (I will, however, disagree that the pleated front of her garment is a sign of conspicuous consumption.  The pleats are only a few millimeters deep and do not represent a great deal of additional cloth.  Rather, I consider them a frugal option that allows one to resize a garment as needed to accommodate life's changes.)

I love that there are not enough beads to stretch between the brooches, allowing some of the stringing material to be seen when worn.  I feel that this is more common full strands (and definitiely more so than multiple strands) and makes for a wonderful impression.

I recommend looking at Delvaux's discussion on ACQ, as he also includes a great image of beads from another graveyard in the region that he dates a bit later.  This can help one form a better picture of what styles of ornament were available to the people of this time and place.


​
Picture
Diagram from Lindbloom showing beads located in the neck/upper chest area
Picture
Kostrup beads, image sourced from Matthew Delvaux
Picture
Glass beads from grave ACQ, imaged sourced from Hilde Thunem
Resources
  • Delvaux, Matthew. "Forging a New Elite for Viking-Age Funen", Text and Trowel Blog, 2017. 
  • Lindbloom, Charlotta.  Køstrup – en nordvestfynsk vikingetidsgravplad, 1993.
  • Rasmussen and Lønborg. Dragtrester i grav ACQ, Køstrup, 1993.
  • Rimstad, Charlotte.  "Vikinger i Uld og Guld", Copenhagen University, 1998.
  • Thunem, Hilde.  "The Aprondress from Køstrup (grave ACQ), 2015.


5 Comments
Catherine Raymond link
2/13/2019 11:52:55 am

I've always thought of the Kostrup pleats as an esthetic option; the pleats allow for a subtle emphasis on the breasts while creating a graceful drape along the bottom part of the outfit. Although I suppose that thrift may have been a higher priority for the Vikings.

Reply
Catherine Raymond link
2/13/2019 12:10:01 pm

It just occurred to me that Delvaux's comment about conspicuous consumption probably relates to the fact that he doesn't understand really how small the pleats in the Kostrup dress were. Yes, he's familiar with Hilde's articles (he cites the most relevant one), but if he hasn't worked with cloth he probably doesn't have an appreciation for how little extra cloth the pleats required.

Reply
Álfrún
2/13/2019 01:40:11 pm

Exactly my thoughts. Those pleats are tiny, and use very little additional cloth at all (and yes, do look fabulous!). They are not like box pleats or some other types that eat up miles of fabric. I did not even realize it myself until I made a dress with that type of top on it.

I do love them though and plan to make another!

Reply
Catherine Raymond link
2/13/2019 08:50:55 pm

So am I, eventually. Right now, I'm still working up my nerve by doing shorter projects.

Reply
Repatriate to Ghana link
2/20/2019 07:11:27 am

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Reply



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