Some silk strips, as shown at Birka and with the Pskov cuffs, were used as a narrow binding on the edge of the fabric, while others were used flat against a garment (many of the stripes from Oseberg show this type of use). In addition to these these sites, graves at Mammen, Haugen Rolvsoy, Tuna and Turinge also have silk strips. (Vedeler, p7)
Both plain weave and samite silks were found in graves, with the latter being elaborately patterned.
Silk Binding - Extant Examples
Graves 464, 834 and 835 all have fragments of silk that were possibly attached to the tops of wool smokkrs. 464 is described as a narrow binding of silk with straps also made of silk twill attached to a dark blue-green wool smokkr. 834 had a scrap of silk binding that might have been attached to the dress or that might have been used as a strap to hold tools. 835 had a wool smokkr with linen loop. A silk band was found there that might have been on the smokkr or might have been used to hang tools.
Birka III, p29, p78-79, p158-159; Kvinnodräkten i Birka, p69. Image from Kvinnodräkten i Birka and photo from Birka III (shows fragment from 834)
This rich grave yielded numerous narrow bands of silk samite that were cut into long strips. These strips have the long edges folded in and there are needle holes show that they were once applied to fabric (traces of both wool and linen have been found on the bands).
Vedeler, p7. Photos from Unimus.no.
Grave 159/1960 has a dense, shiny tabby silk that possibly was a decorative band at the top of an aprondress.
This Viking age grave contained both a dress and an underdress. The over dress (referred to sometimes as a sarafan, and sometimes as a smokkr) had strips of silk applied in bands to the top. That decorative portion of the dress was then trimmed with a very narrow, blue silk binding. The binding was .7cm wide.
The underdress had wide silk cuffs and narrow bands of silk at the bottom edge of those (and potentially a band of silk at the hem as well). The band used to form the hem was 3cm wide and folded around the edge as in the diagram below. The sewn edge was only .5cm wide.
Reference and photos: Zubkova, et. Al.
A sleeve cuff of chevron twill wool has Osenstitch applied to the very edge. The yarn used is glossy, smoothly spun wool, plied Z2S.
Resource and image: Archaeology of York, Web Series, No. 3, The Textiles by Penelope Walton Rogers
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Hägg, Inga. Die Textilefunde aus der Siedlung und us den Gräbern von Haithabu (Karl Wachlotz Verlag). 1991.
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Walton Rogers, Penelope. “The Textiles,” Archaeology of York (28-29 High Ousegate), Web Series, No. 3.