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Progress

8/27/2013

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Recently there was an interesting conversation about Ghawazee coats on one of the Ottoman costume discussion lists.  It was informative to me to see how others feel about this ubiquitous SCA garment.  During this talk, it was obvious that there was some confusion from newcomers as to what exactly made a Ghawazee coat different from a more period coat and this got me thinking about my own progression through Middle Eastern costume in the SCA.

I created this timeline of my attempts at Middle Eastern costume in the SCA in part to illustrate the differences in coat construction between the Ghawazee coat and a more period correct coat and also to show that no one "gets there" in a day, or even a year!  There is always more to learn and explore, and new things are brought to us daily by archeologists, academics and other researchers in the field.  It often takes years (or a decade in my case!) to soak it all in and apply it to our wardrobes and attempts at recreating the past.
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Mid-1990s -- My first attempts at Middle Eastern garb were in no way, shape or form intended to be historic.  It was "fun garb" that was inspired by the mass amounts of cheap bellydance attire they sell at Pennsic.

I loved my "Turkish vests", lurex striped harem pants (I swear I had these in about 7 different colors) and jingle-butt scarves.  I liberally applied tacky trim to everything I could.

I was still fairly new to the SCA and while I had a nice variety of passable newbie garb (bog dresses, tunics, renn faire bodices), I knew was not making an "attempt" with these "Middle Eastern" costume and the fact that these things were so prevalent for sale, and that they were worn by so many others, allowed me to think that such items were truly "ok".

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Late 90s/Early 2000s -- I was looking to go for a less "cabaret" look (as I perceived it at the time) for my "party clothes" at Pennsic and I went two routes with my garb.

The first was that I adopted the Ghawazee coat, which I was told, at the time, was the "period" Middle Eastern garment for the SCA.  Currently, some groups in the SCA recognize this garment for what it is and that it is based on Orientalist paintings from the 19th Century.  However, there is still a misconception by those not involved in Middle Eastern costuming in the SCA and by newcomers coming from the mundane dance world and it is often still thought of as "period" in these circles.

Now, I still believe that this garment is actually progress over things that came years before.  It is a step towards authenticity for those just making the move towards "period" (or for those who already have such garments in their closet), but I do think that there needs to be a greater understanding of the origins of this costume element.

Below the photo of my Ghawazee coat is one of the more common Ghawazee coat patterns that can be found.  It involves a curved seam at the waist and back for fitting.  It also often has a U shaped bust, deep side (and sometimes back) slits and the sleeves are only attached at the top of the shoulder allowing for a vent/slit at the underarm.  Additionally the sleeve hole is curved like a modern shirt.

The image below is one that creeps up commonly in the SCA to advertise haflas (it is a 19th century painting by David Roberts), so it is no wonder that this garment is considered period by so many!
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While I was exploring that infamous Ghawazee coat, I was also trying to step away from what I considered the more cabaret look of my first attempts.  Yes, I was hardheaded and even adopted the "but cholis are period" attitude when I went through this phase.

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And by 2004, my dance garb had taken a full blown ATS look (not hard given that I was studying ATS at the time), complete with insanely full skirts, turbans and antique ethnic textiles.  My friend in this photo is wearing a Ghawazee coat that I made (note the slits in the side).


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2004-2005 -- I had finally started to do real research on period costume from the Middle and Near East.  I dabbled with Persian and Ottoman both and had started to create coats using rectangular construction. 

I also switched from poofy harem pants to salwar and have never once regretted that transition as it was too easy for me to step on the edges of my own poofy pants and trip!.

To the left I have on one of my first attempts at a Persian coat (fully lined), over one of my old gauze chemises and salwar.  I also often wore these coats over my older Ghawazee coats to create a more period layered look that you can see in the image below left.  At this time I was also weaning myself off of wide, triangular hipscarves and choosing to instead wear no belt or simple sashes.  I wish now that i had left the trim off the sleeves of my early coats.

Below are diagrams detailing the construction differences in the period cut coats (top row) and "Ghawazee coats".  The period coats use rectangular construction (which saves on the amount of fabric you use) and with practice fitting them, you can still get a snug fit for Ottoman coats (a fit that often also appeals to dancers). 

I sampled with several styles but most often use the one on the far right for all of my coat layers.
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Moving Forward: I now tend to recreate two looks for my Ottoman persona.  to the left is my "Ottoman Woman's Indoor Look" - salwar, gomlek and chirka - often with a pillbox hat and veil.  I like this garb for Pennsic and typically choose all linen for these garments.

Below that is a photo of my first full Ottoman costume (minus the modesty garment that would be worn in public).  Salwar (in Indian block print cotton in this case), linen gomlek, linen chirka and an entari that has a pattern that is not quite "right" (though the color palette is good).  We often have to use what we can find for such projects, so if I can get a pattern that is close, and the colors are correct and the price is right, I happily make the purchase and use it.  The coat is lined with a striped cotton and has an olive green linen facing.

The belt on both costumes is a long silk sash that wraps twice and has tassels at the end. The buttons on both hirkas are self-fabric covered buttons from Drizt and the buttons on the patterned entari are thread covered buttons in colors that match the coat.

(Please pardon the shoes and glazed look in the lower photo, I had been cooking a feast all day and was beyond tired but wanted a picture of my new garb before I sat down to eat!)

Since creating these items, I have done more research and compiled an an entirely new set of garb for Atlantia's Ottoman 12th Night as seen below.

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1 Comment

But the Internet is Always Right!

8/13/2013

2 Comments

 
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The internet has been a wonderful thing for amateur researchers, especially those interested in historic costume.  When I started in the SCA 20 years ago, there were few books on our topics that were easily accessible (and those were not always good).  Now there is a wealth of images and art right at our fingertips. 

A word of caution though, just because something is on the internet, with a caption or citation, does not mean it is correct ;-)

While working on my Ottoman Pinterest page, I came across a few things that reminded me that one always needs to double check source material.

The stunning coat on the left was on a Pinterest page of Ottoman textiles.  It is listed as being from the 10th Century.

If one follows the image to the source, one will see that that was actually a mislable or a typo and the Met museum has its information as ate 19th–early 20th century. 

Much better.

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The lovely painting of a woman on the left was also on Pinterest.  The pinner has listed this image as 15th Century Ottoman. 

Alas, this painting is from the 1700s by Ottoman miniaturist Abdulcelil Levni.  (Yes, we all love those sleeves, but no, they are not the best choice for someone in the SCA to use for recreating period dress).

The trouble with this image is that if you follow the pin to the original source, you will find a forum, full of images, all of which are listed as 15th Century Ottoman.  There are even captions and comments on many of them about how things like the underbust look was common for the 15th Century...  (Note, this is a non-SCA site, but the images are still very much mislabled.)

The message here?  Double check your sources, and then look at where those sources lead.  A role-playing forum is really not the best choice of resources for reconstructing period costume.  If you pull an image from someplace other than a museum, university or expert, try to track down the original (usually this will lead you to a wealth of other information as well).  And note, even sometimes the experts are wrong...


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There has been an article going around the Viking communities lately that has a lovely strand of extant beads. 

The problem with this is that the article (linked below) actually has an incorrect photo with it.

http://www.vikingrune.com/2010/04/glencurran-viking-necklace/

The correct image can be seen here:  http://pinterest.com/pin/438397344947515036/

Quite a bit of difference, is it not?

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More on Ottoman Costuming

8/12/2013

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In addition to the List of Links for Atlantia's 12th Night (http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/1/post/2013/08/list-of-links-ottoman-version.html) I have compiled a Pinterest page with examples from art, extant pieces and some wonderful work by individuals in the SCA.

http://pinterest.com/alfrunketta/ottoman-and-middle-eastern-costume/

More will hopefully be added after I get additional permissions from people to post their pictures to the page!


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List of Links - Ottoman Version

8/8/2013

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The Kingdom of Atlantia is having their 12th Night in an awesomely local location (DC) and even more awesomely, it will have an Ottoman theme.  I will post more details as they are offered, but I am very excited about this event!

http://acorn.atlantia.sca.org/event_info.php?event_id=2f5db391

To aid those who want to pursue and authentic look for the event, I have compiled a list of links that can help them.  Additionally, I have a WIP Pinterest page that will have images of art, extant items and members of the SCA displaying their wonderfully period attire. http://pinterest.com/alfrunketta/ottoman-and-middle-eastern-costume/

Ottoman Costume:

“The Costumes of Ottoman Women” – site with a downloadable PDF as well as many images of period art.  Some falls outside of the SCA time period, but there is a great deal of information on costuming for an Ottoman persona. http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/OttomanCostume.htm

"Ottoman Turkish Clothing handout" - Mistress Safiye Konstantiniyye's hand out on Ottoman clothing.  http://valkyrja.shawwebspace.ca/pages/view/ottoman_turkish_clothing_handout/ 
Her files (including diagrams): https://lisafiyespics.shutterfly.com/files
Look at her amazing photographs here:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/lisafiye/sets/72157623206924208/

“Images of Turkish and Ottoman Dress” – site with images pertaining to men’s Ottoman costuming of the 16th and 17th Centuries. http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/TurkishMuscowCostume.htm

“Dar Anahita” – extensive site by Mistress Urtatim bint 'abd al-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi that covers clothing, food and persona information for many cultures in the Middle and Near East (including Ottoman).  Included are pattern links, recipes and images of both art and extant textiles. http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/directory.html

“The Ottomans” – excellent site covering both the history and culture (including clothing) of the Ottoman Empire.  http://www.theottomans.org/english/index.asp

“Ottoman Clothing in SCA Period: An Overview” – Information on Ottoman costume, layers, construction and fabrics. http://www.scribd.com/doc/2900/Overview-of-Ottoman-Clothing-in-SCA-Period

Ottoman Empire Clothiers Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/437487859670259/

Coat Pattern:  Instructions for making an Ottoman or Persian coat as well as other layers to complete a look. http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/1/post/2013/03/a-step-further-from-fantasy.html

“Ottoman Turkish Garb: An Overview of Women’s Clothing” -  Image heavy handout about Ottoman costume.  Contains both diagrams for clothing construction and period examples. http://www.katjaorlova.com/FemaleTurkishGarb.pdf

“Ottoman Turkish Coats” – Information on layers, fabrics and construction: http://baronyofatenveldt.org/uploads/library/Ottoman%20Coat%20Handout%202011.pdf

Henna in 16th c Ottoman Turkey - http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/turkish/ottowomen.html

“Çintamani” – Article abut Ottoman decorative motifs.  Includes image of art and extant textiles: http://home.earthlink.net/~al-tabbakhah/cintamani.html

Extant Textiles and Garments:

Freer/Sackler gallery Style and Status Exhibit links:
http://www.asia.si.edu/exhibitions/online/styleAndStatus/

http://www.asia.si.edu/explore/teacherResources/ConnectionsFall2005.pdf
http://www.asia.si.edu/explore/teacherResources/ConnectionsFall05Poster.pdf

Slide show from the Ministry of Culture in Turkey showing extant caftans and textiles.  Look closely at the dates as some items are out of period.  (The Next button is in grey in the lower right corner): http://www.turkishculture.org/picture_shower.php?ImageID=1835

Ottoman caftans and shirts: http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/I_03_01.htm •Photo gallery of Imperial Ottoman caftans:  http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/clothes

Turkish Cultural Foundation – Images of extant textiles and clothing (some are post-period):  http://www.turkishculture.org/fabrics-and-patterns/fabrics-and-textiles-67.htm http://www.turkishculture.org/textile-arts/clothing-159.htm

Extant Persian Chemise (Pirahan):  http://medieval.webcon.net.au/extant_perisan_kamis_14thc.html

16th cent. caftan fragment - http://www.discoverislamicart.org/database_item.php?id=object;ISL;uk;Mus03;42;en

The Art of the Ottomans before 1600 – Metropolitan Museum of Art: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/otto1/hd_otto1.htm •Imperial garment- http://www.ee.bilkent.edu.tr/~history/topkapi.html

“Silks from Ottoman Turkey” – Met museum page with images and information on period and out of period Ottoman silks:  http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/tott/hd_tott.htm

“Caftans – Ottoman Imperial Robes” – blog entry about Imperial Caftans with images of extant coats: http://bikemibrahimoglu.blogspot.com/2010/04/caftans-ottoman-imperial-robes_22.html


For those choosing to be a Persian or other visitor to the Ottoman Court:

Persian Costume:
“Persian Clothing of the 16th Century” – Duchess Roxanne Farabi’s guide to Persian clothing. http://www.willofyre.com/roxanearticle.pdf

Master Rashid’s Persian Patterns: http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/Rashid/

“Pre-Mongol Persian Costume Or 11th and 12th Century Seljuk Dynasty Costume” – Earlier period Persian costuming with many fantastic images from period art and diagrams for creating the correct looks.  http://windchild.net/pre-mongol-persian-costume-or-11th-and-12th-century-seljuk-dynasty-costume/

“Recreating the Costume of Medieval Persia” – Image heavy site with period art and diagrams for reproducing the looks seen in art. http://members.iinet.net.au/~richard.cullinan/index.php/Persian_Costuming

Persian Clothiers Facebook Group:  https://www.facebook.com/groups/228818680565289/ •Persian University: http://www.scapersianu.com/

Egyptian Costume:
“Life Under the Fatimids: Clothing, Women’s Undergarments, Veiling and…A Winter Image of Fatimid Cairo!” – Information on Fatimid Egypt and the clothing including appropriate layers. http://simerg.com/literary-readings/life-under-the-fatimids-clothing-women%E2%80%99s-undergarments-veiling-and%E2%80%A6a-winter-image-of-fatimid%C2%A0cairo/


General Middle Eastern Costuming Information (Including Myths):

“Pre-1600 CE Middle Eastern Garb Do's and Don't's” – a nice guide for ascertaining what is and is not period and on how to improve one’s period wardrobe. http://www.willofyre.com/periodmideastgarb.html - about

“Mistress Safia’s Garb Haven” – site with a collection of images, links and articles for Middle Eastern Garb. http://www.willofyre.com/aboutsafia.html

Middle Eastern Dance Guild: Garb Page –  Includes both images and links for garb sites.  http://awalimofstormhold.wordpress.com/garb/

“A Step further from Fantasy”:  Guide to many of the “Middle Eastern” looks you see in the SCA and how to take steps toward creating a more period wardrobe.http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/1/post/2013/03/a-step-further-from-fantasy.html

“An Overview of Middle-Eastern Garments of the Middle Ages” – Listing of costume components for various time periods and regions. http://home.comcast.net/~mikibu/Articlefolder/an_overview_of_middle.htm

“Dar Anahita” – extensive site by Mistress Urtatim bint 'abd al-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi that covers clothing, food and persona information for many cultures in the Middle and Near East.  Included are pattern links, recipes and images of both art and extant textiles. http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/directory.html

“SCA Near Eastern Cultural Myths” – Mistress Urtatim’s list of myths concerning both culture and costume: http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/MEMyths.html
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A Step Further from Fantasy

3/25/2013

1 Comment

 
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I taught my Middle Eastern garb classes for the first time in a number of years yesterday.  I had a great time and the group of women gathered for the classes were positively lovely.  I am especially thrilled to hear that some were inspired to start sewing because of the class!

My class is actually in two parts.  The first is a sort of overview of what type of Middle and Near Eastern garb you see in the SCA and it includes tips on how to take some pieces from your own garb closet and make them more period.  I will be teaching this class at Pennsic (Wednesday of War Week at 10am).

The second part of the class isn't really one I can teach at War, because it requires more time and things like cutting tables and sewing machines.  But, in it I go into more detail about coats and construction and I help get people fitted for the garments. 

The documents for both classes are below (and have been updated on Scribd as well, in the event you had previously pulled them from that source).  If anyone opts to try to make a coat and needs help along the way, I can be reached at jennelfculler@yahoo.com !  :-)



handout2013.pdf
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completepatternpublic2013.pdf
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Finally!  The Ottoman Hairpiece

2/10/2013

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I was asked on Facebook how I made the hairpiece I wore in this photo.  I finally had the opportunity to dig one out this weekend and take the necessary pictures.

The first thing you need to consider is the type of hair you purchase. You should choose the hair that is closest in color to your own (unless your hair will be entirely covered by a hat) and look for a suitable texture as well.

I have purchased several types of hair over the years, but the only ones that were convincing (on me) were the silkier types of toyokalon fiber.  In addition to looking for an appropriate texture and color, I always buy the type of hair that has a bit of curl to the end as it looks more natural then the blunt cut types once braided.  I have never paid more than $5 a package for this hair but have never found anything under $2 that works (there is some out there that looks more like cotton batting or badly carded wool than it does hair).  There are many textures available from coarse with a bit of crimp to very fine.  Use what looks best with your own hair.  I have done hair pieces with just a few braids using one package of hair, or used two packages for more braids.

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To the left you can see one of the many brands I have used over the years.  It is usually listed as "finest quality" or "best quality".  below you can see how the tips of the hair curl.  The hair is sometimes listed as Yaki Pony or Ponytail.  It is not weft type hair.
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To the left is the type of hair band I use as a base.  It is extremely elastic and has a very open weave (as you can see below).  They sell these at most of the hair braiding supply shops in my area (or at least they did a few years ago) and they run no more than $1 each.  They come in several colors and un-stretched are about 2x4 inches and they easily stretch to fit around your head.

Below you can see one stretched just a bit.  See how large the holes become?  It is very easy to pass the hair through them!
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Do not laugh at my model ;-)  Here is a close of up of the hair attached to the band.  When I am making a hairpiece I put the stretchy band on a foam wig mannequin.  I take the bundle of hair (which comes with a rubberband in the very center) and divide it into sections.  It is very good to have a spray water bottle handy here, as it can keep the static down and the hair clumped together while you work with it.

I place a bobby pin in the center of the section I am using, and pass that through a hole in the band just about an inch.  I insert my finger below the bobby pin and pull one half of the hair through the hole (leaving the rest on the other side).  I then braid the hair and tie off the ends with a small, clear elastic.
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Above is a picture of the completed hairpiece as well as one displayed on my model ;-)

To the left is the type of hair comb I used to use to pull all of my hair back before slipping on the hairpiece I made.  (At the time I was using these, my own hair was barely two inches long!).  I would pull all of my hair back, slide on the hairpiece and secure with two bobby pins and then top with a hat. 

I made all of my hats myself.  They were fitted to be worn over these hair pieces and are unlined, but have craftweight wool felt as a stiffener.  I think the wool helps them "grab" a bit and I have never, even with hours of dancing, had a hat slip off and reveal the secret of my hair.
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Haberci

9/13/2012

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I was drawn to the Middle Eastern arts from the moment I was introduced to the SCA.  I loved the costumes and the dance, even if I really didn't understand either in a more proper historical context.  Actually, at that time, there weren't many individuals who really did... Ghawazee coats were considered period, as were harem pants and I actually heard ATS styling defended by more than a few on the basis of the fact that cholis are period for India.

Thanks in part to the internet, and to the years since then that people have had to research these things, there is a better understanding of correct costuming for the cultures of the Near and Middle East. An entire community and culture has grown up in the SCA around this facet of the Society.  At last, newcomers have access to good examples and good teachers to help them find their path (something I didn't have at that point in time).

Please don't think I feel that Ghawazee coats and traditional ATS costume and dance have no place in the SCA, I actually think they do.  The Society requires that one make an "attempt" and I feel very much that both of those meet that criteria.  I do believe in honesty though, and in knowing what it is that you are wearing/doing and where it came from.  This way, if asked, you can state that it's not period, but it's perhaps something you already had or something you thought might work for nights at Pennsic.  It helps prevent further confusion.  More on all this later at a later date, as I actually have a lot more to say on the subject.

The point of this bit of background is that in the early days there were not a lot of resources at events like Pennsic and it was often hard to wade through the massive class list to find exactly what you wanted and even more difficult to find locations for classes in private camps.  I remember those early Pennsics where I roamed around the lake for hours trying to find Orluk Oasis and the classes that were being held there.  It was frustrating.

That all changed about five or so years ago, when a friend asked for help putting together a Middle Eastern supplement for the official Pennsic Schedule. There were some issues that were going to prevent all of the classes from being published and he wanted to make sure that good things did not get missed.

I offered to do the task and to that end I created Haberci... a flyer not only of the official classes on the Middle Eastern track, but also an unofficial schedule of haflas, roundtables, henna parties and the like.  The publication (which is available for free on site at Your Inner Vagabond and at Touch the Earth) was such a hit that I have continued the tradition.  Haberci even went to Gulf Wars this year, thanks to another enthusiastic individual!  It is my hope that there will be non-War Haberci issue this winter.  Maybe it will be Haberci: The Peace Edition.

For those interested in learning more, check out the Facebook page for Haberci news: https://www.facebook.com/PennsicHaberci

For those who want to see the last few issues, click below :-)
haberci2012final.pdf
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haberci2011final.pdf
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